С стене
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateThe team representing St. Petersburg has successfully completed a winter ascent via the S. Semiletkin's route (category 6A) on the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4777 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan.
St. Petersburg Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing
2015 Russian Championship
Ice and Snow Class, Correspondence Entry
Report
St. Petersburg National Team Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via North Face Semiletkin Route, 1988, Category 6A Winter Ascent St. Petersburg 2015
Ascent Passport
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the winter ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via Semiletkin Route, category 6A difficulty.
MINISTRY OF SPORT TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM
Championship of Russia
2013 year Class of altitude-technical ascents
Report
Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall Semiletkin's route 1988 6A cat. dif., winter ascent Krasnoyarsk 2013
Passport of the ascent
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4.
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMate### Description of the first ascent of the North Face of Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in Tian Shan, made in November 1999 by a team of climbers from Kyrgyzstan, complexity category 6A.
Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.
Passport
- Winter category.
- Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
- Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
- Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
- Length of the central part 285 m.
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateA description of a winter ascent to Svobodnaya Korea peak via a 6B category route, with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical details.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category
- winter
- Region
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Object
- Pik Svobodnaya Korea.
- Category of difficulty
- 6B, ctm 7.4.144 (S. Semiletkin, 1988)
- Height difference — 890 m, length — 1160 m.
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to the summit via a challenging 6A category route, detailing tactics and technical aspects.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Object — Peak Svobodnaya Korea 4. Category of difficulty — 6B, KTM 7.4.144 5. Height difference — 580 m, route length — 890 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 480 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, steepness of the wall part of the route — 81.6° (4330–4580 m). 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 144/79 | 91/59 | 2/2 | 60/0 |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent to Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4777 m) via the north wall along the route of category 6B complexity, climbed by a team from the Krasnoyarsk Kraisport Committee in February 1995.
I. Technical Class
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
- Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
- Difficulty category 6B
- Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
- Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
- Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
- Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
- Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateClimbing description of Pik Osvobozhdennaya Koreya via the North face, 6B category of difficulty, Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
- 6B complexity category.
| Indicator | Entire route | Wall | Most difficult part of the wall |
|---|---|---|---|
| Height difference |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateWinter ascent of Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the North Wall, 6B category of difficulty, Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.
Svobodnaya Koreya via North Face
S. Semiletkin, 1988, cat. 6B Tian Shan — Kyrgyzsky Ridge 7.4.144.
Passport
- Class: winter
- Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
- Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, via North face, 4740 m. 4th ascent
- Route cat. 6B (S. Semiletkin, 1988, 3rd passage)
- Height difference: 890 m, length — 1160 m.
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of a category 6 complexity route to the peak Svobodnoy Korei via the North face of the East ridge in Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
Passport
I. Category of technical ascents. 2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the North face of the East ridge. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain 580 m, length 890 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 480 m. Average slope of the route 64°, wall 81.6° (4330–4580). 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock pitons | Bolt pitons | Nuts | Ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 178 | 5 | 86 | 48 |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateWinter ascent via a Category III route on the north face of Pik Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz Range, Tian Shan.
Passport
- Winter category.
- Tian-Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Svobodnaia Korea, 4740 m, via the north wall.
- 6A category difficulty (S. Semiletkin, 1988) 9th ascent.
- Elevation gain 820 m, route length — 1125 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty is 390 m, 6th category — 310 m. Average steepness of the route is 60°.
- Pitons used | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: |