Alibek

### Ascent route to Peak KAP via North-Eastern ridge, category IIb difficulty, 700 m elevation gain, 6 hours of climbing.

DESCRIPTION of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass Summit

Description of the ascent route to peak U1 451 in the Caucasus Range area, complexity category - 1A.

REPORT on the ascent made in the area ch. Caucasian ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Pakhar pass to the summit of KAP PIK (3400 m) from the Belalakaisky glacier (from the north) Group Members: Slezyn Yu. — MS Ovcharenko V.D. — 1st sports category Pilipenko V.S. — 1st sports category Volkov L.B. — 1st sports category

### Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) via Category 1B Route Three route options, equipment recommendations, and optimal departure time guidance for climbers.

Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16) From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option: To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge. Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!). The upper part of the ridge is scree. The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit. The summit dome is snow-covered. The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.

Description of the 2B category complexity route to the summit of Dalovchat (Uzlovaya, 3680 m) via the north-eastern ridge in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35° Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|

Ascent log for Jalovchat Uzlovaya peak via Dkh pass on the Western Caucasus, category 1B complexity route.

Ascent Passport Snow-ice Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Naruk station Peak, ascent route — Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya from Dkh pass Expected category of difficulty — 1B Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m Number of overnight stays — none Number of walking hours — 6

Ascent to the summit of Jalovchat-Uzlovaya via the eastern slope and ridge, category 1B difficulty, from the Alibek base through Turie Lake.

Description Climb route #49 to peak Dzhalovchat (Uzl) Cat. 1B to col Dzhalovchat. From the Alibek base camp follow the trail to the Turye lake. Pitch a bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend first along the green moraine starting from the lake, and then along the "ram's foreheads" and the glacier in the direction of the Dzhalovchat col. 200-250 m before the col, turn left and then move along the eastern slope of peak Sunakhet. Cross the marginal crevasse and ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the saddle between peaks Sunakhet and Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya (the glacier is heavily crevassed, belay!!!). Then, ascend along the ridge with snow and ice ridges to peak Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya. From the bivouac at the Turye lake, the ascent takes 6-8 hours. Descend back to the original bivouac via the same route. Route Conclusion The group believes that the route they have taken is no less difficult and long compared to a similar route to peak Sofrudju, and corresponds to a Cat. 1B route.

Ascent to the Jalovchat peak (3870 m) via a snow-rock route, category 1B, duration 17-19 h.

Fig. 13 Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13) From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.

Description of a new 5B category route to the peak of German Komsomol (3600 m) via the center of the East face in the Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. German Komsomol Peak (3600 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: rock climbing. Height difference: 560 m. Route length: 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 240 m. Average steepness: main part of the route from section R0 to section R25 (up to the top of the tower) 72° entire route from start to summit 60° Pitons left on the route — 8, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used:

Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of **Komosomola** (~3600 m) from the **Belaalakayskiy Glacier** in the **North-Western Caucasus**.

Ascent Record I. Technical Climbing Category. Dombay Region, North-West Caucasus. German Comsomol Peak, ~3600 m, from Belalakaysky Glacier. Category of difficulty — 2A. The route is combined, with a height difference from the glacier of ~1000 m. Belay — without pitons. Number of climbing hours from the moraine bivouac: ascent 5–6 hours, descent — 3 hours. Training group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Kruchikov Yu. — III, Koblyakov V. — III, Rakhmatov R. — III, Galimyanov N. — III

Report on the ascent to the summit Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the Alplager "Alibek" in 1982.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp. Group composition: Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist. Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich DOMBAY 1982