Report
on the ascent to the summit of Malaya Belalakaya 3748 m via the center of the northern wall, made by a group of instructors from the "Alibek" alpine camp.
Group composition:
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Abarbachuk Georgiy Samuilovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
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Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor-methodologist.
Head of the training department — Master of Sports of the USSR Kovalenko Yuriy Ivanovich
DOMBAY 1982
Description of the approach and explanation for the table of main route characteristics
From the Alibek alpine camp through the Alibek river along the trail leading to the "Belalakay canyon" to the overnight stay above the training rocks 1–1.5 hours. From the overnight stay along the moraine, then along the right side of the Belalakay glacier to the Malaya Belalakaya summit to the "conical moraine" 1.5–2 hours. From the "conical moraine" upwards 300 m along a snowy slope with a steepness of 20° to the first icefall (section R0–R1). The icefall (R1–R2) is a series of crevasses and walls of III–IV difficulty category with a total length of about 30 m. It is climbed in the left part. From the first icefall upwards along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 25–30° (R2–R3) to the second icefall 200 m. Short, 3–8 m, walls of this icefall (R3–R4) have III–V difficulty category. The length of the icefall is about 60 m. The main part of the route (section R4–R6) is a four-hundred-meter ice slope with a steepness of 45–50°. The optimal path of movement is upwards and slightly to the left, as shown in the photograph, reaching the ridge in the area of section R6. Further along the несложным rocks of the ridge exit to the summit, bypassing three small "gendarmeries" on the right. On the ridge, a convenient and safe overnight stay can be organized almost anywhere. Descent via route 2A category of difficulty to the NE. An early start is recommended to pass the "board" before it is exposed to the sun.