Fig. 13

1. Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours.

From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours.

Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours.

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.
3. Time of exit from the bivouac — no later than 3–4 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) rock pitons — 2; c) ice screws — 2 (in the second half of summer); d) rock hammer — 1; e) carabiners — 7–8; f) crampons — 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).