REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MONT BLANC DU TACUL VIA THE NW SLOPE "CLASSIC" 2A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF AK POLITEKHNIK UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF DUPLIAC A.K. August 2, 2018

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Report

On the Ascent of the Combined Team from Moscow, Tomsk, and Omsk Region to Mont Blanc 4810 m

via the Central Counterfort of the Southeast Face with the Eccles Pass, Innominata Route Presumably 5B Category of Difficulty Smailkina S.V. — Team Leader Prilepskaya N.E. Gorodetskaya O.A.

Climbing Team Members

1. Smailkina Svetlana Vladimirovna, Master of Sports, Tomsk. Coach — Sapunova Yu.V. Phone: +7 923 409 10 17. Email: talery@mail.ru
2. Team Leader — Prilepskaya Natalia Evgenievna, Master of Sports. Coach — Kuznetsova E.V.

Ascent Report on Mont Blanc via "Traverse of the Three Peaks" Route, Category 2B, by the Academic Section of the "Polytechnic" Sports Club under the Leadership of V.A. Molodozhen on August 8, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team to Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco), 4808 m, via the "Italian Classic from Gonella Hut" route, 2B cat. diff. (G. Bonin, L. Grasselli, A. Ratti, J. Gradin, A. Proment, 1890) Team leader: A. V. Yurkin Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

1. Alps (Italy, Val d'Aosta region), Val Veny, Courmayeur area. № 10.3 (according to KGBM 2011)
2. Mont Blanc (Mont Blanc (French), Monte Bianco (Italian)) 4808 m from Gonella Hut (G. Bonin, L. Grasselli, A. Ratti, J. Gradin, A. Proment, 1890)
3. Category: 2B cat. diff.
4. Route type: combined

Route to the summit of Mont Blanc 4810 m via the Northwest slope. Proposed category of difficulty 2B Route Passport

1. Mont Blanc via the Northwest slope, Chamonix, Savoy Alps, France 4810 m.
2. Proposed category of difficulty 2B.
3. Nature of the route: snow-ice
4. Elevation gain of the route: 1278 m Length: 1800 m

Savoy Alps, France,

July 18-19, 2008

Climbing Passport

1. Savoy Alps, France
2. Mont Blanc, Southeast ridge, via the classic route.
3. Estimated difficulty: 2A.
4. Route type: snow and ice climb.
5. Elevation gain: approximately 1610 m (3200–4810).
6. Leadership: Dusharin Ivan Trofimovich — Master of Sports, 1st category;

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif.
3. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter).
4. Proposed category — 6A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°.
6. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |

Passport

1. Category of rock climbing ascents.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983.
4. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification).
5. Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 49+2*/29+2* chocks 81/37
7. Team's travel time - 12 hours.

The summit of Grand Capucin 3838 m, East face. The route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part was ascended by the team V. Igolkin – Yu. Oleinikov on June 22, 1998. 2 — The route "Directe des Capucins" (Bellin, Bovin and Maioli, 1983) was ascended by the team S. Soldatov – M. Sibaev on June 22, 1998.

CERTIFICATE

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part.
4. Complexity category 5B–6A cat. (TD/TD+ according to the French classification).
5. Height difference — 400 m, route length — 620 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 620 m, of which 6 cat. — 500 m, average steepness of the route — 84°.
6. Driven pitons:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Alps, Mont Blanc massif
3. Grand Capucin (3838 m) — via the center of the West face
4. Complexity category — 6B. W. Bonatti route
5. Height difference — 450 m. of which: rock part — 350 m. Length — 720 m, incl. rock part (after traverse) — 420 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 330 m,