1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°, route length:

6. Number of pitons used:

7. Total climbing time: 15:30.

8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: none.

9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

   GORDA RUSLAN ALEKSANDROVICH — Master of Sports, YANKOV ALEKSANDR YUR'EVICH — 2nd sports category, KUDERKIN NIKOLAI SEMENOVICH — 2nd sports category, ASRIYANTS SERGEI SERGEEVICH — 2nd sports category.

10. Team coach: GORDA R.A.

11. Date of departure and return: September 15, 1978.

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of Velingrad peak via the central northwest spur, estimated 3B category. From the base camp on Sofiyskiy glacier — 4 hours. Cross the glacier from west to east, to the right of the central part of the upper plateau, avoiding crevasses and heading towards the central spur.

Approach the beginning of the spur via a steep snowy slope (40–45°) — 10 minutes from the glacier to the start of the spur. Before the spur, there is a wide and deep bergschrund that needs to be descended into. The route begins from the bergschrund with a 15-meter monolithic vertical (90°) wall. Climbing is difficult, piton protection! Further, 15 meters of rock at 45–50° with shelves covered in stones. Move carefully — small stones are dislodged by the rope.

From the upper large shelf, exit onto a "razor" 10–15 meters long. From the "razor," exit right onto a 30-meter wall at 85°. Climbing is very difficult. In the middle of the wall, there is a 5-meter overhanging section. Ladders are necessary!!!

The transition from the "razor" to the wall is very difficult due to the throw. Initially, the wall has very few holds, with very narrow ledges overgrown with moss. Piton protection. Wearing galoshes will significantly ease the passage of the overhanging section. The route goes from the "razor" to the right and upwards.

After passing the overhang, move straight up to exit onto a wide shelf. Control cairn! A group of 4 took 2 hours to pass this wall. This is the first key section of the route. During the passage of this section, 9 pitons were used.

From the control cairn, move up the shelf for 60 meters. The shelf leads to a wall with a vaguely defined inner corner. Passage: climb the wall on the right side of the inner corner (about 10 meters), then left and upwards under an overhang. After overcoming it, exit onto a wide balcony where the whole team can gather. The wall is 20–25 meters high, at 75–80°. Climbing is difficult, piton protection. 5 pitons were used. Ladders will be very helpful. The wall is monolithic, with very few and small holds. The balcony is a possible bivouac site. Second control cairn!!

From the control cairn, the second key section — a 15-meter overhanging wall at 92–95°. The wall is climbed to the left of the platform. The first 5 meters without overhanging, with easy climbing, are traversed left and upwards from the balcony to a small ledge. Then, right and upwards, very complex climbing. The rock is monolithic, strong, with few holds. Piton protection! Ladders and chocks are necessary!! The lack of galoshes significantly complicated the passage of this section, assessed as 5–6 category. Climbing is extremely difficult. The first climber took 2 hours to ascend the upper 10 meters. The total time for this section was 3 hours. With galoshes, the time would be halved.

The upper part of the overhanging wall is climbed through a cleft with a rock finger inside (a piton was left). From this finger, move steeply left onto 5-meter inclined smooth slabs (not visible from below) and then over a 1.5–2-meter wall — exit to the other side of the spur. This is a good spot for reliable protection, but no more than 3 people can gather. 9 pitons were used for this wall.

Further up, 60 meters of easy rock at 45–50° — protection via protrusions and pitons (3 pitons). Then, transition to the right side of the spur ridge. On the right side, 250 meters of very easy rock up to the pre-summit tower with a 10-meter wall at 90°. However, numerous ledges, protrusions, shelves, and holds facilitate the climb. Climbing is of medium difficulty. The wall is strong, monolithic.

The summit height is 3110 m. The ascent from the glacier to the summit took 9 hours. Descent via the 1B category route takes 1 hour.

28 pitons were used during the ascent.

Recommendations: For this route, the following equipment is necessary:

• main rope — 2 × 30 m.
• rock pitons — 20–25 pcs., preferably with petal-shaped and channel-shaped pitons
• 2-step ladders — 2 pcs.
• chocks
• galoshes — 4 pairs
• climbing carabiners — 25 pcs.
• rock hammers — 2 pcs.
• jammers — 2 pairs

Start of the route

Summit

Passage of the third wall