Kjukjurtljü

TECHNICAL CLIMBING CLASS ON THE WESTERN TOWER

Report

USSR ARMED FORCES TEAM TEAM LEADER: MSMA Yevgeny D. Zhizin DEPUTY TEAM LEADER: MSMA Leonid M. Matyushin MEMBERS:

• MSMA Alexander S. Chmykhov

37. Traverse of the Elbrus massif with ascent to Kyukyurtly via the South Face (route by V. Nekrasov, cat. 5B). The path from the Terskol village (group of 4 people) to the Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From the Khotyutau pass, without descending into the Ullukam mouth, turn right and ascend the rocks of the Khotyutau saddle, then traverse the avalanche-prone glacier descending into the Ullukam mouth. Behind it, exit onto the ridge descending left into the Ullukam mouth between the avalanche-prone glacier and the Ullukam glacier. Along this simple scree ridge, descend to the left lateral moraine of the Ullukam glacier. From the Terskol village, 10–12 hours. Bivouac on the moraine. From the moraine, exit right onto the Ullukam glacier, cross it

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Elbrus region
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kjukjurtlu, 4623 m, center of the west wall
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 6B category difficulty
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1020 m. b) length of sections: 5 — 120 m, 6 — 425 m, A-II — 8 m, mixed (У–VI, А+е) — 235 m. c) average steepness — 87°
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Technical climbing category.
2. Region 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperezau pass to Gumači peak, Elbrus southwest spur.
3. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi), 4639 m, point 107, T. Lukashvili route 1981, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Rock route.
5. 6B category of difficulty, seventh ascent.
6. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain — 590 m,
   • Route length — 845 m,
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
   • technical
2. Ascent area
   • Caucasus, from Chipperazau pass to Kitlod pass
3. Peak
   • Kyukyurtlyu 4639 m, center of the western wall
4. Proposed category difficulty
   • 6B
5. Route characteristics

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Central Caucasus, Kykkyurtlyu gorge.
3. Kykkyurtlyu peak, center of NW wall — 4623 m.
4. 6B category route, Lukashvili 1981.
5. Height difference — 860 m, wall section height difference — 580 m, wall section length — 640 m, average steepness of wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons driven:

Kukurtli to the center of the NW wall, T. Lukashvili's route, 1981 Caucasus 2.4.107 (110)

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus. Elbrus Southwest shoulder.
3. Kukurtli via the center of the NW wall, 4639 m.
4. Assumed to be 6B category of difficulty (6th ascent).
5. Height difference: 780 m, of which 450 m is wall section, length - 1350 m. Section lengths: 5 category of difficulty - 305 m, of which 40 m on artificial terrain (AID).

1. Central Caucasus; Ullukhurzuk gorge; section according to the classification table "from Chiperazaau pass to Gumači summit"
2. Name of the peak: Kyukyurtlyu-Kolbashi (4639 m), name of the route: via the right part of the center of the West Face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Nature of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 890 m (by altimeter); including the wall section: 580 m. Route length: 1330 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty – 100 m.
   • VI category of difficulty – 605 m. Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Area 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperazau Pass to Gumači peak, Ullukhurzuk gorge, southwestern spur of Mt. Elbrus.
2. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi) 4639 m, via the center of the Western wall.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 590 m, route length: 800 m, wall height: 470 m, wall section length: 515 m, section lengths by category: I - 150 m, II - 60 m, III - 70 m, IV - 80 m, V - 145 m (95 m on artificial anchors), VI - 390 m (all on artificial anchors); total artificial anchors: 390 m, difficulty: A1 - 35 m, A2 - 265 m, A3 - 90 m, average wall slope: 83°, overall route slope: 65°.
6. Anchors left on the route: total — 48 including:
   • rock anchors — 14