img-0.jpeg

  1. Traversing the Elbrus massif with an ascent to Kyukyurtlyu via the Eastern buttress of the South wall (route by V. Nagolny, category 5A). The approach path from the village of Terskol to the initial bivouac on the snowy shoulder of the Eastern buttress of the South wall of the Kyukyurtlyu spur is described in routes 32 and 35. The second approach option from the village of Terskol to the scree under the southern walls of the Kyukyurtlyu peak is described in route 37. From the scree, ascend via the Eastern buttress or left through the couloir (rockfall risk) to the snowy shoulder of the Eastern buttress of the South wall of the Kyukyurtlyu peak. From the shoulder (group of 4-5 people), ascend directly upwards via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Eastern buttress to a 40-meter wall. Ascend the wall directly upwards (piton protection!), then via a 60-meter simple chimney ("live" rocks, piton protection). From the chimney, ascend via difficult rocks of a 50-meter wall. Then, ascend via ledges on the left side of the cone-shaped slope to a small platform near a chimney. From the shoulder, 7-9 hours. From the platform, ascend via moderately difficult rocks of a chimney to the ridge. Ascend via loose rocks of the ridge to under an 80-meter wall (the most challenging section of the route). Ascend the monolithic wall upwards and via a 10-15-meter chimney ("live" rocks, piton protection!) to the ridge. Ascend via a narrow, shattered ridge to under the 1st gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on via a 15-meter wall. Descend from it via a sport rappel, then ascend via a jagged ridge to under the 2nd gendarme. Ascend via a small chimney upwards to the right to the gendarme, and behind it, ascend via moderately difficult, shattered rocks of the ridge to Kyukyurtlyu. From the platform near the chimney, 4-5 hours. Bivouac on the snowy fields. From Kyukyurtlyu, ascend via gentle snowy fields and slopes to the Western shoulder. From Kyukyurtlyu, 2-2.5 hours. From the shoulder, descend to the snowy fields leading to Elbrus, and via snowy fields and slopes, reach under the saddle between the Western and South-western peaks of the Elbrus massif. Ascend via the left side of the steep ice-snow slope between two rocky outcrops to the left side of the saddle between the peaks. From the saddle, ascend leftwards and via a gentle snowy slope to the Western peak of Elbrus. Descend from the Western peak to the saddle, ascend to the Eastern peak, and descend from it via the saddle. The route to Priyut Odinnadtsati (Shelter of Eleven) and the Ice Base in the village of Terskol is described in routes 30 and 31. From the bivouac to the village of Terskol, 16-18 hours. The duration of the route is 6 days. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: main rope 2×40 m, expendable cordelette - 3 m, rock pitons - 8-10, extended rock pitons up to 12-15 cm - 8-10, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 12-14, headlamps - 4, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on all platforms of the Eastern buttress of the Kyukyurtlyu spur and on the snowy fields and slopes of the Elbrus massif. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment