Northwestern Caucasus

Ascent to the summit Main Ptysh via the Eastern Edge, difficulty category 3B, with recommendations and description of belay and necessary equipment.

Ascent to the summit Glavny Ptysh (3520 m) along the eastern edge — cat. diff. 3B (Fig. 39) Bivouac on the Ptyshsky pass. From the pass, 30 m to the right along the shelves to a 3-meter wall and along it to the left and upwards to the jagged ridge composed of inclined slabs (piton protection!). Further directly along the ridge to the steepest part of the ascent (bypassing to the south is not recommended). At the steep part of the ascent: exit to the left to the internal corner, along it upwards 15–18 m (thorough piton protection!) exit to the shoulder. From the shoulder: upwards on the right side of the wide couloir (rockfall!) to the summit. From the pass 6–7 hours.

Description of the traverse of Tsentralnaya (Central) Quadriga mountain with a transition to Vostochnaya (Eastern) Quadriga, including the distance between the peaks and an illustration of the route.

Гревеив от Центр. Гваидрь к Восточному — 2–5 км. becomes Distance from Tsentr. Gvaidry to Vostochny — 2–5 km.

The account of the first ascent of the Ptysh-Juguturlyuchat traverse by a group of climbers in 1946, including route details and technical information.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ① Class. 5А+1 protocol No. 3 dated 22/XI–46 123 TOURIST CLUB READING ROOM No. 797 RECORD TRAVERSE PTYSH—DJUGUTURLUCHAT

Ascent to Gvandra's Eastern summit via the Eastern edge, category 3A difficulty, height difference 700 m, average steepness 45°.

Ascent Log Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus Ascent route — Gvandra East peak 3900 m via the eastern ridge Proposed category of difficulty — 3A category of difficulty Route characteristics — height difference 700 m, average slope 45° Pitons hammered: for belaying: — rock: II — ice: 2

Ascent to Gvandra's Eastern summit from the saddle between the Middle and Eastern summits, category of difficulty 2-6, recommendations for equipment and organization of the ascent.

Gvandra East Peak Ascent from the col between Srednyaya and East peaks, cat. II. For the approach to the col, see the description of the traverse of Srednyaya and Main Gvandra. From the col, ascend the snowfield to a snowy gendarme and descend from it to a lowering in the ridge. Bypass the first rocky "finger" on the right via an inside corner, 5 m — piton! Descend into a gap to the 2nd "finger" along the snowy ridge. Bypass the next "finger" on the left along the snow. Careful belaying — the snow layer is very thin on the slabs and on the rolled-in ice! The third "finger" is a monolithic rocky block of reddish color — pass it on the left along a chip — pitons! Belay! The rest of the group members can go left of the chip using a fixed rope. From the "finger" top, descend along the snow to the col to the last gendarme-"finger". Bypass it on the left along a ledge with an overhanging slab — belay! Piton! — and reach the rocky ridge, which leads to the eastern peak. From the col to the summit — 3–3.5 hours.

The first ascent of the northwest wall of the Zapadnaya Dvoynanka peak via the "Sargol wall" variant with the exit to the spot via the north wall in 1965.

37 WESTERN DVONYASHKA via the Western wall with an exit to the shoulder along the Northern wall July 19-26, 1965 www.alpfederation.ru Introduction I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics The Dvoynyashka massif (3900 m) rises as a separate double-peaked tower in the chain of peaks along the Main Caucasian Range: Kirpich–Dallar–Dvoynyashka–Zamok. The northern slopes of the massif, which are steeply sloping walls with an average steepness of 70–80°, feed the large Kichkinokol glacier, from which the Uzunkol river originates. The southern slopes are also steep and more eroded.

Ascent to Marukh-Bashi via the Northern Ridge (Category III difficulty): route description, climber recommendations, and required equipment.

Fig. 3 Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit via the northern ridge — category 3B difficulty (Fig. 3B) From the Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass (overnight stay on the moraine under the pass) ascend up to the right along the snow to the right side of the ridge to the rocks. Then move left along the rocks for 60 m and reach the main ridge. Along the heavily fragmented rocks of the main ridge (rockfall hazard!) ascend 90 m upwards and continue along the clearly defined ridge to the slabs. Bypass the slabs on the right (40–50 m) and reach the first ascent. From the ridge, move right to bypass the ascent (8 m), then climb 20 m upwards along the wall of the ascent (piton protection!) and reach the

First ascent to the summit of Sofruddu via the south face, route description, features, and recommendations for climbers.

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation REPORT on the first ascent to the Sofruju peak via the southern wall on July 27-29, 1972 I. Group Composition: Gubanov Yu. D. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, senior instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Prima Yu. V. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, radio instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Khamtsov A. P. — participant, 1st class, junior instructor, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement, Alibek alpine camp worker. Support group led by Candidate for Master of Sports Vorobyev D. G., parallel route on the Main Amanauz peak via the southern wall, category 5B difficulty. II. Alpine and Geographical Overview of the Sofruju Massif.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the eastern ridge, a combined route of 5A category of complexity.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship. Technical Altitude Class. 2024 Report on the Ascent of Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Eastern Ridge (V. Kavunenko Route, 1964), Category 5A, Combined Terrain The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, under the auspices of the "OGK" (St. Petersburg). Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak. Ascent Passport | 1. General Information | | | | :------------------------------ | :------------------------------ | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Andrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Elena Vadimovna Aleksandrova, 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full Name of Coach, Sports Rank | D.M. Kiselev, Candidate Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, "OGK" Alpine Club |

Winter traverse of Sulakhat massif, grade 2B, duration 15-20 hours, special equipment required, avalanche hazard on the route.

Traverse of Sulakhat massif (3600 m) from the south, in winter — category 2A (Fig. 8) From Dombay plain past the Alibek alpine camp to the hut on the Alibek glacier moraine. Then up the moraine and, before reaching the upper summer bivouac, exit right onto the Dvuyazychnýy glacier and along the right side of the steep part of the tongue — to the upper plateau. Across the plateau up in the direction of the pass and under the rocky ridge of Kvadratny peak — bivouac (cave). From Dombay plain 7–8 hours. From the bivouac through the depression between Kvadratny peak and Bezýmyannaya I peak to the saddle between Bezýmyannaya I and Bezýmyannaya II peaks and through Bezýmyannaya II peak exit onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau. Ascent to the South Sulakhat peak via the snow-covered spur of the ridge. From the South peak along the ledge to the couloir and up it to the ridge. (Protection is with pitons! Most difficult section of the traverse!) Past the cairn left of the ridge along the ledge to the last gendarme before the North peak. Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledge and along the ridge — exit onto the North peak. The path from the bivouac takes 5–6 hours. From the peak, descend back to the saddle between the peak and the gendarme, from here descend along the left side of the couloir onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau (danger of avalanches in winter!) and return to the bivouac under Kvadratny peak. Descent takes 3–4 hours. From the bivouac to Dombay plain — 3–4 hours. The route is avalanche-prone! Recommendations for climbers Number of participants in the group — no more than 8 people. Initial bivouac — under Kvadratny peak.