Gvandra East Peak
Ascent from the col between Srednyaya and East peaks, cat. II.
For the approach to the col, see the description of the traverse of Srednyaya and Main Gvandra.
From the col, ascend the snowfield to a snowy gendarme and descend from it to a lowering in the ridge. Bypass the first rocky "finger" on the right via an inside corner, 5 m — piton!
Descend into a gap to the 2nd "finger" along the snowy ridge. Bypass the next "finger" on the left along the snow. Careful belaying — the snow layer is very thin on the slabs and on the rolled-in ice!
The third "finger" is a monolithic rocky block of reddish color — pass it on the left along a chip — pitons! Belay!
The rest of the group members can go left of the chip using a fixed rope.
From the "finger" top, descend along the snow to the col to the last gendarme-"finger". Bypass it on the left along a ledge with an overhanging slab — belay! Piton! — and reach the rocky ridge, which leads to the eastern peak.
From the col to the summit — 3–3.5 hours.
Descend from the summit via the cat. I route to Ak-Tyube pass.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants in a group — 2 training units
- Initial bivouac — "Myrdy overnight site"
- Departure time from the bivouac — not later than 4:00 AM.
- Special equipment for a group of 4: a) main rope — 2×30 m b) expendable rappelling rope — 2 m c) rock pitons — 3–4 pcs. d) carabiners — 6–7 pcs. e) rock hammers — 2 pcs. f) ice screws — 3 pcs. For descent at the end of summer g) crampons — 1–2 pairs