Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak. The following options are possible:

• Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
• Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one. The landmark is that the peak is visible from it. Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent. The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:
• leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class - Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region - Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Osman-Tala mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route - SIYEKH (BLACK), 4100 m, via the northwest buttress of the north wall 4. Proposed difficulty category - 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1300 m, average steepness 65° Length of sections - R1 - 380 m, R2 - 710 m, R3 - 530 m, R4 - 500 m, R5 - 60 m, R6 - 0 m 6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating A.T.O. rock 7. Number of climbing hours - 18.5 hours

REPORT

On the ascent of peak Siyoh (4100 m) Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range, Osman-Tala mountains 27.06.1978–28.06.1978 Team members:

1. Belousov S.V. — 1st sports category, team leader
2. Bezrukov L.D. — participant
3. Bratanov A.A. — participant
4. Olefir V.V. — participant
5. Skalaukhov A.P. — participant

95. Ascent Report

I. Ascent Class — Rock 2. Ascent Area — Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky Ridge, Tajik Igizakov area 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route, route characteristics — Sioykh, 4100 m, via the western ridge, rock. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 1B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness — 42° section lengths: R1 — 550 m, R2 — 150 m, R3 — m, R4 — m, R5 — m, R6 — m. 6. Pitons driven: rock 3/0

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - South Siam /4337 m/ via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 3A route 5. Route characteristics - the route is combined, height difference - 400 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 70° 6. Pitons driven: rock - 14 pcs., chocks - 8 pcs. 7. Number of climbing hours - 10 8. Number of nights - no nights 9. Team of a/l "Varzob"

93

Ascent to the summit of YUZHNAYA SIAM via the Northwest Wall, category 2B difficulty

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River, or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida. In the first case, it takes two hours to reach the Pereval Chetyrekh. From the pass, descend to the left onto the scree of the western slopes of the ridge and, bypassing the summit of Malyutki Siama, approach the summit of Yuzhnaya Siama. The northwest slopes of the summit are covered with snow and ice, and there is a characteristic rocky outcrop in the pre-summit area, which is accessed via a narrow couloir. The couloir is snow-ice with a slope of 30–40°. Follow the firn slope to the base of the couloir and move up it. At the end of summer, the couloir is icy, so crampons are necessary! Continue moving up the couloir towards the rocky outcrop. The couloir ends with an ice wall 80–90 m long and 45–60° steep, and the rocky outcrop. Climb the rocks of the outcrop on the right side, and then the ice wall to reach the pre-summit snow ridge. To overcome the last 20 m of the ice wall (up to 70°), steps need to be cut. Belaying is with pitons! The pre-summit snow ridge, which is not too steep, leads to the summit rocky ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty. To the summit, 1–1.5 rope lengths. The descent from the summit is to the southwest via a narrow couloir with a slope of 30–35°. After 100 m, traverse the couloir to the right. Then, across easy rocks with scree, cross three low, destroyed counter-forces and descend onto the scree (snow in early summer) and, bypassing the western slopes of Yuzhnaya Siama and then Malyutki Siama, reach Pereval Chetyrekh, and from there descend to the base camp.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Group size – 6 people
2. Initial bivouac – base camp on Siama or moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida.

19. Vostochnaia Siam from the east, route 2A cat. dif., fig. 6

From the base camp, cross Siam and start ascending to the glacier cirque below the peaks of Vostochnaia Siam and Yuzhnaia Siam. The ascent follows a stream that flows into Siam. After 1.5–2 hours, reach the glacier moraine. Then, proceed onto the glacier and ascend to the col between the peaks of Sugur and Vostochnaia Siam. The col is covered with compacted talus. From the col, ascend via snow, which becomes steeper (up to 50°) in the upper section. Stay on the left side of the snowfield and reach the base of a gendarme on the ridge. Traverse the gendarme via a ledge, using difficult rock climbing on the right, until reaching a couloir. Ascend the couloir almost to the top of the gendarme. Then, use moderately difficult rock climbing to reach the ridge. Two long, loose couloirs lead to the pre-summit ridge. Take the right one. From the ridge, use a good ledge on the right to approach the base of the right couloir. The couloir is rockfall-prone! Traverse the couloir on the left, near the rocks, occasionally stepping onto moderately difficult rock formations. The couloir makes a sharp turn to the right, then to the left, and leads to the pre-summit ridge. Ascend the ridge using rock climbing to reach the first summit. The summit is a massive boulder leaning towards Siam. Then, continue along the ridge, crossing a col, to reach the next peak — the Main summit, which is almost the same height. Descend via the ascent route. The climb takes 9 hours.

Description

Traverse of the "Seraia" peak 3900 m above sea level

The "Seraia" peak is located in the Southern spurs of the Gissar ridge to the north of Dushanbe city. The ridge of "Seraia" stretches from west to east for a length of 3.5–4 km. The ridge has a remarkably distinctive character in its structure. Being on the same ridge as the "Yakum" peak, which consists of pure granites, the ridge of "Seraia" consists of marbleized limestone, which greatly complicates the organization of piton belay. The ridge consists of three peaks: the Main (or Western) peak (which is the highest), the Middle peak, conditionally called the "Main Gendarme", and the Eastern peak, named by the first ascenders, army climbers, as "Chortov palets" (Devil's Finger). The approaches to the ridge of "Seraia" are most conveniently made from the "Varzob" alpine camp along the Salo-Rabot river valley. After two fifty-minute transitions, we reach the first large right tributary and start ascending up along its left bank, following the trail. The trail leads to the ridge, which leads to the Yakum peak. At the border of rocks and grassy slopes, we cross the ridge and start traversing the slopes on the other side with a slight gain in altitude. The path is easy here. Then we enter the northern cirque of Yakum peak and, continuing to move east along the ridge of "Seraia", we reach the "Prostorny" pass. It is convenient to set up a base camp at this pass. This pass connects two snowy cirques, and therefore it is completely windless here; from here, the most difficult sections of the ascent to the "Main Gendarme" are visible.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): Gissar Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sangi-Navishta, 3980 m via the eastern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 600 m average steepness: 55° section lengths: 180 m, 280 m, 370 m, 480 m, 540 m, 6... m.

Sangal'tskiy Zub. From the North

Description of the ascent via route 2A cat. sl.

I. Approaches.

The approaches are the same as those to the peak Avangard, Kopandor.

II. Ascent.

A wide gorge branches off to the right (in the direction of travel) from the overnight stay site. In 40–50 minutes, Sangal'tskiy Zub becomes visible on the right. The ascent to the northern ridge is possible via any of the counterforts — grassy slopes, easy rocks. The actual ascent to the ridge is possible depending on the state of the slope:

• directly up the easy rocks;
• or initially to the saddle in the right part of the ridge. The ridge is wide, the rocks are easy, with several low (10–15 m) gendarmes, which are ascended directly (rocks of medium difficulty). Belays are made to projections.