REPORT

On the ascent of the "Taymyr" club team at the XIII Open Russian Championship in Alpinism in the technical class

Sauk-Jalau (SE) peak via the 3rd wall — 6A category of complexity

Team coach and captain — Kudrim A. V.

1995 For any questions regarding the report, please contact: 663319, Norilsk, Ordzhonikidze St., bld. 2, apt. 93, A. V. Kudrin.

Section	Length	Steepness	Category
R14	25 m	85°–90°	V–VI
R13	15 m	70°	IV
R12	80 m	75°–85°	V–VI
R11	40 m	95°–100°	VI
R10	40 m	70°–75°	V
R9	40 m	65°–75°	V
R8	40 m	75°–85°	V–VI
R7	40 m	80°–90°	VI
R6	80 m	60°–75°	V
R5	6 m	90°–95°	VI
R4	120 m	65°–90°	V–VI
R3	40 m	75°	V
R2	200 m	60°–65°	IV
R1	120–150 m	35°–45°

Additional sections:

Section	Length	Steepness	Category
R26	40 m	30°	I–II
R25	40 m	65°	V
R24	40 m	70°	V
R23	40 m	70°	V
R22	100 m	60°	IV–V
R21	80 m	70°	V
R20	150 m	80°–85°	V–VI
R19	40 m	80°–90°	V–VI
R18	40 m	65°	V
R17	80 m	45°–50°	IV
R16	40 m	65°	IV–V
R15	10 m	90°–95°	VI+
R15*	40 m	60°	V+

Note: R15* — alternative or additional section marked on the diagram.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION BY SECTIONS

The route consists of 300–350 m of ice slope (R0–R2) and the main rock part with a large number and variety of cracks, allowing for the use of a wide range of both pitons and chocks. The terrain of the rock part allows for good belays, ensuring the safety and speed of passage.

Kudrim A. V. led on section R0–R2, and Kraitor S. G. and Savinich A. S. on the remaining sections.

On all sections, the first climber went without a backpack; on section R10–R11, backpacks were pulled up. After the ice, the route follows a pronounced inner corner (R2–R3) and then goes along inner corners, walls, and sometimes overhangs (R3–R25), which lead to the ridge (R25–R26).

Descent via the 5A category route in the direction of the 4130 m pass: