Kongur Tagh
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the ascent to Sarykuyakudzi peak (6220) via the eastern ridge in the Kongur Muztagh range in Chinese Pamir, with a complexity category of 5A, completed in 2007.
11.3.16
1. Ascent Passport
- Area: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kengsuvar Section number according to the 2001 classification table – 11.3
- Peak name: Sarykayakudji. Route name: Via the Eastern Ridge
- Category of difficulty – proposed 5A.
- Route type: ice and snow.
- Height difference of the route: 828 m (according to GPS readings).
Route Description: центр. кф. СВ стены
Report on the first ascent of the route "Think Twice" on the Central Buttress of the NE wall of Muztagh Tower (7273 m) in Karakoram, made by the team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing in 2012.
Russian Alpinism Championship 2012. High-altitude ascents class
Ascent Report
of the Moscow Alpine and Climbing Federation team to Muztagh-Tower (7273 m) via the Central Buttress of the Northeast Face, "Think Twice" route — first ascent, approximately 6B category of difficulty Dedicated to the memory of Pavel Kozek, who perished on the slopes of Muztagh-Tower on August 25, 2008 Senior coach: S. Kotachkov, team leader: S. Nilov Moscow 2012
Ascent Passport
- Karakoram, Pakistan — section 10.2 according to KMGV 2008
Route Description: Ю гребню
Report on the first ascent of Mузтаг-Ата via the South Ridge, category 5B.
Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing
Report
On the first ascent to Muztag-Ata (7546) via the south ridge
Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2005
1. Ascent Passport
- Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kalaxung, classification table section number for 2001 — 11.3
- Peak name: Muztag-Ata. Route name: via the south ridge from Kalaxung Glacier.
- Proposed category: 5B.
Route Description: Ю гребню
Ascent description of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) summit via the southern ridge in 2005, complexity category 5B, snow and ice route.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table.
- Peak name: Muztag Ata, 7546 m, route: via the South Ridge.
- Proposed category: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type: ice and snow.
- Route elevation gain: approximately 1450 m.
Route length: approximately 3200 m.
Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 20 m.
Average slope:
- main part of the route – approximately 45°,
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the ascent via an alpinist route of the 5A category of difficulty via the northwestern ridge of the Mutztag Ata peak (Kunlun Mountains, China) in 2004.
Ascent Passport
- Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
- Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
- Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route character: snow-ice
- Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
- Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route:
Route Description: с запада
Ascent of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) via the West Ridge, grade 5A, made by a Russian team in 1997.
Passport
- Class: High-altitude technical
- Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China)
- Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A
- Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team)
- Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20°
- Used pitons, 6 ice screws
- Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp)
- Overnights:
- 1st in tents on a rocky platform
Route Description: В гребню с л. Ю Чимген
Report on the first ascent by a Russian climbing team via the east ridge of Peak Kyzylsel (6,525 m) in the Kongur Muztagh range in 2000.
1. Climbing Passport
- Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Kunlun). Gorge: Chimgan. Section number according to the 1999 classification table No. 11.3
- Name of the summit: Pik Kyzylsel Route name: via the eastern ridge from the South Chimgan Glacier.
- Proposed — 5A category of difficulty
- Route type: Ice and snow
- Height difference of the route: 1685 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4712 m. Section length:
- 5th cat. diff. – 2 m
Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of Kongur (7719) via the counterfort C-3 on the wall, category 6A route in "Alpine" style.
Report
On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)
Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)
1. Climbing Passport
- Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
- Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
- Category of difficulty — 6A.
Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of the route "Moskovsky Ekspress" 6A category of complexity on Kongur Tagh (7719 m) in 2004.
Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004
EURO-ASIAN ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION
11.3.6A
High-Altitude Technical Class
Report
on the ascent of Kongur Tagh (7719 m) at the Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004 Team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Vyacheslav V. Odokhovsky Expedition Leader: Yuri V. Khokhlov
Route Description: С гребню С склона
Ascent of Kongur (7719 m) via North Ridge, category 6A, snow and ice route with an altitude difference of 4000 m.
11.3. 6А
ASCENT REPORT
- Eastern Pamir, Kongurmustag Range (Kashgar)
- Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: North Ridge
- Proposed category: 6A, second ascent
- Route type: ice-snow
- Height difference: 4000 m Route length: 6200 m Section length:
- Category 5: 1200 m