11.3.8

1. ROUTE PASSPORT
1	Region	Kongur Muztagh Range
2	Valley	Karakul Lake
3	Number of section according to the classification table
	1999 year
4	Name of the peak	Aklangam
5	Name of the route	via SW edge of SE ridge
6	Route difficulty assessment	4B cat. diff.	First ascent

11.3.6

Ascent Certificate

1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, Karayalak gorge, section 11.3 of the classification table.
2. Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: via NW slope and N ridge.
3. Proposed - 6A category of complexity, first ascent, 2nd overall ascent.
4. Route type: ice-snow.
5. Route elevation gain: approx. 4000 m. Route length: approx. 11500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity: 17 m. Average steepness:

11.3. 6А

ASCENT REPORT

1. Eastern Pamir, Kongurmustag Range (Kashgar)
2. Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: North Ridge
3. Proposed category: 6A, second ascent
4. Route type: ice-snow
5. Height difference: 4000 m Route length: 6200 m Section length:

• Category 5: 1200 m

Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004

EURO-ASIAN ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION

11.3.6A

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kongur Tagh (7719 m) at the Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004 Team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Vyacheslav V. Odokhovsky Expedition Leader: Yuri V. Khokhlov

Report

On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)

Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
2. Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
3. Category of difficulty — 6A.

1. Climbing Passport

1. Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Kunlun). Gorge: Chimgan. Section number according to the 1999 classification table No. 11.3
2. Name of the summit: Pik Kyzylsel Route name: via the eastern ridge from the South Chimgan Glacier.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Ice and snow
5. Height difference of the route: 1685 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4712 m. Section length:

• 5th cat. diff. – 2 m

Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China)
3. Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A
4. Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team)
5. Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20°
6. Used pitons, 6 ice screws
7. Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp)
8. Overnights:
   • 1st in tents on a rocky platform

Ascent Passport

1. Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
2. Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
3. Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
6. Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table.
2. Peak name: Muztag Ata, 7546 m, route: via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed category: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.
5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1450 m. Route length: approximately 3200 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 20 m. Average slope:
   • main part of the route – approximately 45°,

Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Report

On the first ascent to Muztag-Ata (7546) via the south ridge

Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2005

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kalaxung, classification table section number for 2001 — 11.3
2. Peak name: Muztag-Ata. Route name: via the south ridge from Kalaxung Glacier.
3. Proposed category: 5B.