Route Description

Ascent to peak KALTSIT - 2A category of difficulty via the northwest ridge. From the base camp, cross the meadow with a rain gauge to the BIOB River. Cross the river and ascend on the right side of the couloir towards peak KALTSIT to a meadow with a snow-measuring marker. The beginning of the couloir is approximately 1 km from the confluence of the ARG and BIOB rivers. The upper part of the couloir leads to a narrow snow couloir in a small ridge adjacent to peak Kaltsit (Fig. 1). The slope of the snow in the lower part of the couloir is 20°, and in the upper part, it is 30°–45°. The length of the entire couloir is about 100 m. The passage through the couloir is done either on snow with mandatory piton belay on rocks or, in unfavorable snow conditions (hard snow, ice, little snow), on the left rocks with piton belay or via perms. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The time it takes to reach the base of the couloir from the base camp is about 2 hours. The mentioned couloir leads to a saddle. Then, move traversely left and upwards to a pyramidal snow patch with a characteristic rocky outcrop in the middle (Fig. 2). The slope of the snow patch in the lower part is 10°. Further, the slope increases to 30° (near the rocky outcrop). It is convenient to pass the snow patch along small rocky outcrops stretched in the direction of movement. Bypassing the rocky outcrop on the left, ascend to the upper part of the snow patch. Then, traverse right and upwards (2–3 ropes) on rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay or via ledges - outcrops) to the saddle (Fig. 2). The saddle is located to the left of a three-pronged rocky gendarme. From the saddle, traverse, bypassing the gendarme on the right, and move along the ridge to the summit. The exit to the summit is via a simple internal angle, broken from massive stone slabs. Throughout the path along the ridge, belay is done via outcrops.

Ascent Passport

1. Sports organization — MGS DSO "Spartak".
2. Ascent category — technical.
3. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
4. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Jinatar 4400 m, north-eastern ridge.
5. Ascent description: a) height difference 700 m. (III cat. diff. — 490 m, IV cat. diff. — 270 m, V cat. diff. — 260 m); b) average steepness 65°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — rock 90, ice —, bolted —; for creating I.T.O. — 5.
7. Total climbing time: 11 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - 5,3 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route

• Jonatar, 4300 m, via SW ridge

4. Estimated difficulty category - 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 250 m, average slope 55° on ascent, section lengths - I 100 m, II 150 m, III 240 m, IV 20 m, VI m.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for creating belay points rock - 34 ice - -

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Arga area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Heroes of the Kursk Battle (approximately) 4110 m via NW edge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 610 m length of sections with III–IV difficulty category — 300 m with an average steepness of 62° average steepness 41°

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

Назепо — bivouac — 3 vak becomes Nazepo — bivouac — 3 vak

To the Classification Commission

Moscow City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society

Ascent to peak "Vilnius" via the 3rd wall, made by the team of Moscow City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society via route 4B cat. difficulty Pamir-Alay Fann Mountains, Arg gorge August 1976

I. Characteristics of the region and the object of ascent.

The mountain system that includes the Fann Mountains occupies an intermediate position between Tian Shan and Pamir and is called the Pamir-Alay. Ongoing mountain formation processes lead to significant folding disturbances. The actions of water and wind exacerbate these disturbances. All of this together affects the terrain. A large difference between winter and summer temperatures affects the formation of cracks. The ridges of the Fann Mountains have many walls reaching a height of two kilometers, canyons, and towers. The mountain crests abound with gendarmes and weakly fixed large blocks.

Ascents

1. Climbing category: Rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Vilnius, 4120 m, first ascent via the northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 53°
   • Length of sections: R1–R100 m, R2–R160 m, R3–R530 m, R4–R200 m, R5–R200 m.

Report on the first ascent of Peak "Vilnius" via the NW buttress, category 3B difficulty Team of the "Zalgiris" Sports Society. Leader: A. P. Baublis. Coach: A. V. Petrov, Master of Sports. Vilnius, 1973.

1. Introduction. Rationale for the Route Choice

From July 13 to August 13, 1973, sports training camps for Lithuanian mountaineers were organized in the Fan Mountains by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR. Along with other tasks, the camp leadership planned to ascend an unnamed peak and decided to name it "Vilnius" in honor of the city's 650th anniversary. During a consultation with N. Paganucci, a great connoisseur of the Fan Mountains, it was discovered that near the base camp, in the area of the Akhsu River (also known as Akhbaсай), there was a beautiful unnamed peak that was chosen as the object of the ascent.

2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Peak "Vilnius" is a rocky massif with steep walls on the east, north, and west sides, and only on the south side does it connect via a narrow pass to the "Zonatar" peak. From this pass, there is a convenient and quick descent via scree to the west. The northern wall connects to the eastern and western ridges, along which two ascent routes to Peak "Vilnius" were planned. Both routes are purely rock climbs, with snow only at the summit and in some places on the northern part of the peak. The approach to the foot of the peak is convenient and takes about 1.5–2 hours of walking from the base camp by the Arg River. The path goes along the right bank of the Akhsu River. After fording the river at the koshi (rapids), one exits directly to the routes. This location has a convenient spot for a bivouac.