Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains, Levyy Zindon gorge
3. Ascent object: SOAN via N wall of NW ridge, height 4750 m
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1400 m, length 2400 m, length of sections VIk/tr: 430 m, average steepness of the wall 65–70°, ridge 30°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technically challenging
2. Ascent area - Fann Mountains, Levyy Zindon gorge
3. Ascent route, peak, its height - Mt. SOAN, 4750 m, north face of the north-west ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1400 m, route length - 2400 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 390 m, average steepness:
   • walls - 65-70°
   • ridge - 30°
6. Pitons driven:

From leaving for the route to descending to the glacier, the group spent 13.5 hours on the route, including rest on the ridge, at the summit, and on the col. Time breakdown by sections:

• Leaving the bivouac on the right moraine of Chimtarginsky Pass
• Approaching the bergschrund
• 1.5 hours Ascending ice to the rocky ridge
• 4.5 hours Ascending rocks to the pre-summit ridge
• 3.0 hours ascending the ridge to the summit

It seems logical to avoid these walls and go around them, even though the ice in the upper part is steep, because the rocks here are heavily destroyed and climbing them is not pleasant. After reaching the ridge, it is necessary to change into shoes with rubber soles, as trekking boots do not hold at all on the limestone rocks that make up the summit rocks. The first two ropes along the ridge pass through heavily destroyed rocks, with short walls in some places. We come to a 30-meter wall, which we climb through a crack in the middle part. The crack can be approached via an inclined rock-ice platform. After the crack, there is a platform, and on it, another rope of rocks leads to the beginning of the ice ridge running from the northeast to the summit dome. After climbing just over 5 ropes, it is necessary to change back into crampons and ice axes, as the route continues on ice to the summit. The lower part of the ice ridge is a system of muldas and vertical ice walls up to 4-6 m high, bounded on the left by rocks that drop down steeply to the southeast, and on the right by a steep (up to 60°) ice-snow slope of the pre-summit ridge. After 80 m, we reach a relatively gentle part of the ridge. Now there is also snow and ice on the left, with a mulda below. We ascend along this ridge, moving simultaneously, to the pre-summit plateau, and from there to the summit. The length of the upper part of the ridge is about 120 m. The pre-summit plateau is a wide rock bowl filled with thawed ice, with talus shelves on the left. It is possible to spend the night here. It takes 15-20 minutes to reach the summit from here. The descent from the summit is in the direction of the pass between the peaks Zindon and SOAN.

PIK SOAN (4750) via "poske" 4A cat. dif. The peak SOAN is separated from the Zindon summit to the south by a ridge, from which a descent is possible to the east, to the Pravy Zindon glacier, and also a descent to the west, into the Levyy Zindon river valley. To the north, Pik SOAN is separated by a wide ridge, gently descending to the terminal moraine of the Pravy Zindon glacier and connecting Pik SOAN with a double-peaked summit. On the left (when viewed from the Pravy Zindon glacier) peak of this double-peaked summit, an ascent was made and it is rated as 3B cat. dif. (Pik Chaplygina). The descent from the ridge to the west is apparently difficult due to "ram's foreheads" that drop off in its lower part into the Levyy Zindon valley. The eastern wall of Pik SOAN is approximately 500 m of sheer cliffs made of marbleized limestone and a steep ridge above them.

• Porshrum on Vetene (with pitch numbers)

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains. 3. Pik Severny, height 4200 m, ascent via the eastern wall. 4. Presumed difficulty category (third "B" cat. diff.). 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 185 m; length of sections with 3–4 difficulty grade — 85 m, average steepness — 60° 6. 20 rock pitons hammered in, one of them for ITO (Instrumental Technical Equipment). 7. Total hours of climbing — six hours 8. Number of overnight stays — no overnight stays.

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

Mt. Северная, 2B, via North Edge

Climbing type: Rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Северная (4027 m), via North Edge Difficulty category: 2B Route characteristics: Height difference — 200 m

Route description

The route starts from Алаудинский pass. Follow the ridge of the pass to the rocks of Peak Северный. From the upper point of the pass's ridge, move 2 meters to the right — the beginning of the route, the lower part of the 1st buttress, a signpost is present (М^). From the start of the route, ascend 5–8 m upwards, then traverse 10 m to the right along a ledge. Continue upwards through internal corners for about 70 m until reaching a control cairn located on a ledge of the northern ridge. Then ascend 10–15 m along the ledge to a "hole" (a gap covered by a stone slab from above). Through it, ascend easy rocks to the left and upwards to an inclined 8-meter slab at the summit, where the summit cairn is located. Descend via scree towards Шагун-Ага pass.

Report

On the ascent of

p. Saryshakh, 5B, via the right part of the northwestern wall

Black Ice Club Team

Team Leader

Poliakov M. A.

Participants

Stepanov N. A.

1. Route classification: Technical.
2. Mountain region: Gissar-Alai, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.