PIK SOAN (4750) via "poske" 4A cat. dif.
The peak SOAN is separated from the Zindon summit to the south by a ridge, from which a descent is possible to the east, to the Pravy Zindon glacier, and also a descent to the west, into the Levyy Zindon river valley.
To the north, Pik SOAN is separated by a wide ridge, gently descending to the terminal moraine of the Pravy Zindon glacier and connecting Pik SOAN with a double-peaked summit. On the left (when viewed from the Pravy Zindon glacier) peak of this double-peaked summit, an ascent was made and it is rated as 3B cat. dif. (Pik Chaplygina).
The descent from the ridge to the west is apparently difficult due to "ram's foreheads" that drop off in its lower part into the Levyy Zindon valley.
The eastern wall of Pik SOAN is approximately 500 m of sheer cliffs made of marbleized limestone and a steep ridge above them.
The route taken starts directly from the terminal moraine of the glacier, without ascending to the ridge, straight up the snow in the direction of the bergschrund, leaving rock outcrops to the left. About 100 m above the bergschrund, on a talus shelf, crampons were put on. From here, the ascent is in the direction of the rocks and to the right along the crevasse between the ice and the rocks to a narrow and steep chute separating fairly steep rocks and filled with accretion ice. Here, ice screws were used. The chute has a slope of up to 50°, the ice is unpleasant, and screw-in hooks are desirable. In the upper part, it was necessary to cut steps. The second rope goes somewhat to the right of the exit from the chute. Then the next two ropes lead to an inclined diagonal shelf leading left to an ice slab descending from the eastern ridge of the summit. Three ropes to the left along the shelf to the base of the ice slab. From here, 8-10 ropes of ice with a slope of up to 45° lead up to the ridge, and in some places in the upper part, it's even steeper. In some places on the ice, long snow veins remained, making it possible to accelerate movement somewhat. The slab was traversed on front points with the use of intermediate hooks. The entire slab is rockfall-prone. The snow on the ridge is crumbling rock. The exit to the eastern ridge of the summit occurs where a system of short vertical walls begins on the ridge. If you go further to the right, you can pass another two