Turkestan Range

Mountain range12,873.08 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category 6B difficulty level to "Admiraltets" peak (5090 m) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak "Admiralteets" (5090) via the "pillar".
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent, combined.
  5. Total elevation gain of the route — 1500 m. Elevation gain of the "pillar" — 700 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the "pillar" — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. Length of the "pillar" — 920 m. Length of the main part of the "pillar" — 660 m. Average steepness of the "pillar" — 70°. Average steepness of the main part of the "pillar" — 77°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 640 m.
  6. Number of pitons used: | Ice | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :---: |
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Description of the passage of a 6A category route to Peak Admiralteets (5090 m) via the "pillar" on the Turkestan Range in Pamir-Alay.

Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
  3. Peak, route: peak Admiralteets 5090 m via "Bashkirov's Pillar" route, 6A category.
  4. Elevation gain:
    • "Pillar" elevation gain – 740 m
    • Main part of the "Pillar" elevation gain – 560 m
    • Total route length – 2860 m
    • "Pillar" length – 920 m
    • Main part of the "Pillar" length – 675 m
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Description of the passage of the route 6A category of difficulty along the wall of the Admiralteets peak in the Aksu gorge by a team led by Alexander Shavrovich in August 1990.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category
  2. Ak-su gorge
  3. Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.
  4. Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27?
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Report on the third ascent of the 6A category route via the "pillar" to Admiralteets Peak (5090 m) in the Pamir-Alay.

(Admiralteets), 5090 m via the "pillar", V. Bashkirov, 85. Pamiro-Alai. Laylyak gorge area 5.4.2.2.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Aksu gorge, Turkestan ridge, Pamiro-Alai.
  3. Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via the "pillar", Bashkirov route, 6A cat. diff. Third ascent.
  4. Elevation gain: 1500 m. "Pillar" elevation gain — 740 m. Main part of the "pillar" elevation gain — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. "Pillar" length — 920 m. Main part of the "pillar" length — 600 m. Section lengths: 6 cat. diff. — 510 m, 5 cat. diff. — 340 m. Average slope of the route — 74°. Average slope of the main part of the "pillar" — 80°.
  5. Pitons driven: Rock Bolt Chock Ice 152 1+34X 232 3
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Ascent to Peak Admiralteisky (5090 m) via *"Stolb"* (the Pillar) from the North, grade 6A, route length 750 m, 75 movement hours, team from Almaty branch of Central Sports Club of Army.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay
  3. Peak Admiralteets (5090 m) via the "Stolb" from the North
  4. Complexity category: 6A
  5. Route characteristics: route length — 750 m; average steepness of the route — 82°
  6. Pitons driven:
    • rock: 120
    • bolt: 14
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Ascent to the summit of Ak-Su Main (5355 m) via the North Face and NW Edge, first ascent, 6th cat. difficulty, height difference 1785 m, length 2300 m.

II ASCENT

  1. Category: High-altitude technical (first ascent).
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, AK-SU gorge.
  3. Peak AK-SU Main 5355 m, via the north face and NW edge.
  4. Proposed 6B category of complexity for the first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 1785 m.
  6. Route length: 2300 m. Length of sections 5–6 is 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section R0–R9 is 70%/3670–4000 m/, R11–R21 is 80%/4060–4470 m/, including 6th category of complexity sections: 85%/3870–3910 m/, 75%/4065–4110 m/, 80%/4110–4210 m/, 95%/4210–4250 m/, 85%/4290–4325 m/, 90%/4430–4440 m/, 75%/4440–4470 m.
  7. Pitons driven:
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First ascent of the north wall of the main summit of Ak-su (5355 m) via the left counterfort, cat. diff. 5B, combined, 1985.

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Akksu Main with ascent to Akksu North via the left buttress of the North wall (first ascent)

  1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
  2. Ascent region — Turkestan Range
  3. Summit and ascent route height Akksu Main, 5355 m
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B combined
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1505 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 647 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route (buttress) 70°
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the first ascent via the Eastern edge of Ak-su peak (Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay), with the category of difficulty 5B.

PASSPORT

I. Technical class. 2. Turkestan Range (Pamir-Alay). 3. Peak AkSu, via the East Ridge. 4. Approximately Category 5B difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 1510 m, length — 2740 m. Length of sections with Category R5–R6 difficulty — 1180 m. Average steepness of the main sections: – 55° (3870–4320) – 73° (4780–5180)

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Description of the first ascent of the direttissima of the bastion on the northern wall of Peak Ak-su (5217 m) with a complexity category of 6B.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, AkSu valley.
  3. Peak AkSu (C), 5217 m, via the direttissima of the northern wall bastion.
  4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain – 1450 m, length – 1945 m, including 1030 m and 1140 m for the bastion respectively. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 350 m, 6th category – 905 m, including 200 m and 850 m on the bastion respectively. Average steepness of the main part of the route – the bastion – 76°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks, bolts, ice | 125 | 250 | 87 | 10 |
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Climbing passport for the peak Aksu North (5217) via the 6A category route "On the wall" on the north wall.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region of ascent: PAMIR-ALAI, Turkestan Ridge, Laylyak gorge area
  2. Name of the peak: Aksu North (5217)
  3. Name of the route: "To the wall" (L. Troshchinenko)
  4. Category: 6A
  5. Nature of the route: combined
  6. Height difference: 1517 m Route length: 1895 m Length of sections:
  • category V — 810 m
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