Alay Mountains

Ascent to Kirgizata East via North Ridge, combined route 2A, length 1000 m, time 4-5 hours.

Kirgizata Vostochnaya via the North Ridge. The route is combined, cat. 2A (fig. 5, 6, 40, 41, 43). Length — 1000 m, ascent — 450 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the northwestern slopes of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up-right across the moraine, then cross the Vostochny Kirgizata Glacier and approach the right side of the Eastern buttress of the North Ridge of Kirgizata Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, ascend the ice-snow slope to the Eastern buttress. Along the snowy, scree-covered, wide, and gently sloping Eastern buttress, rise to the lower shoulder of the North Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow the easy, broken rocks and scree, overcoming numerous simple short walls and low seracs (with protection) along the gently sloping 300–400-meter North Ridge to the foot. Along simple sections with short walls of medium difficulty, and steep 40–50° rocks of the ascent, perform a 200–250-meter climb (pitons protection) to the upper shoulder. From the shoulder, traverse 150–200 meters along the simple rocks of the North Ridge, bypassing a serac on the left (protection), approach the base of the North serac's tower, and ascend a simple 10–12-meter wall (protection) to the serac. From the serac, descend 10 meters using a sport descent down a simple wall, and along the scree-covered, snowy 200–250-meter North Ridge, approach the rocky tower of the summit. Ascend an 8–12-meter simple wall (“live” rocks, protection) to reach the summit of Kirgizata Vostochnaya. From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours. East Ridge

Ascent via the center of the Eastern wall of peak LII / XXII Olympic Games (4560 m, Tsamvr Apai ridge) Cat. 6B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 235 Ascent category: technical Ascent area: Pamir Alai mountain range Peak, its height, and ascent route: LPI / XXII Olympic Games / 4560 m via the Centre of the Eastern wall. Proposed category of complexity: 6B (2nd) Route characteristics: Route length — 1290 m Length of category 5 sections — 40 m Length of category 6 sections — 470 m

Ascent route description for Peak Tereshkova (4830 m) via the southern edge, complexity category 4B, rocky terrain, elevation gain 650 m.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — rock climbing. Ascent area — Alai Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Terekhova Peak, 4830 m, via the southern ridge. Expected complexity category — 4B. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference — 650 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 100 m, average steepness of the route — 60°. Pitons hammered in: | | for belaying | for creating artificial footholds | | :----------------------------- | :----------- | :--------------------------------- | | rock | 3 | none |

Climbing route description for Peak Skal'ny (4480 m) via the South-West wall and North ridge, category 36, in Pamir-Alay.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Climbing category — technical. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m. average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections: I — 800 m. II — 680 m. III — 515 m.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Addarok (5127 m) via the north face, category 5B, with technical characteristics and details of the route.

Ascent Log Climbing category — technical. Alaysky ridge, Koksu gorge. Aydarbek peak, 5127 m via the northern wall. Difficulty category — 5B (2nd). Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1030 m; length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category — 700 m; average steepness — 56°. Pitons hammered: for belay, for artificial climbing holds | Type of pitons | For belay | For artificial climbing holds | | :------------- | :-------: | :----------------------------: | | Rock | 57 | III |

Report on the ascent of the Sports Committee of the USSR Ministry of Defense team to Peak Konstruktors via the center of the left part of the South Face in the Pamir-Alay range in 1981.

XXXII USSR Climbing Championship – Rock Climbing Category – Pamir-Alai – Report The team from the Sports Committee of the Ministry of Defense of the USSR on the ascent of Peak Konstruktors (4100 m) via the center of the left part of the South Face. Mikhailov A.A. — team leader and coach — Master of Sports Kharitonov A.P. — deputy leader — Candidate for Master of Sports Zadvoryev Yu.V. — team member — Candidate for Master of Sports Povolotsky V.Yu. — team member — Candidate for Master of Sports (–9) 07.81

Description of the passage of a 5A category difficulty route to the peak Pgo-Vostochny Sauk Dzhyailau (4730 m) in the Alai Range.

ASCENT PASSPORT Climbing category: technical Climbing area: Alai Ridge (northern spur) Peak: South-East Sauk Jailyau from the north (third ascent), 4730 m Difficulty category: 5A Route characteristics: height difference 1210 m from the col at 600 m average steepness from the col 59° section lengths see table Pitons used for protection to create ITO:

Description of the first ascent of Category 2B route to Kalkush peak from "Chetirekh" pass with a detailed description of the path and technical details.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF KALKUSH FROM THE PASS "CHETYREKH" (FOUR) 2B cat. diff. The summit of Kalkush (photo from the summit of Skalnaya) Approach routes: From the Dugoba alpine camp, ascend up the left side (orographically) of the Dugoba river to the second confluence (confluence of the Ak-Tash and Dugoba rivers). Here are the overnight stays. The journey from the alpine camp to the overnight stays takes 2.5–3 hours. From the overnight stays, the path lies to the pass "4-kh". First, upwards in the direction of the Kalkush summit, then under the eastern slopes of the Kalkush summit to the last (along the path) buttress of the summit. The path lies along a good trail. Then, bypassing the buttress, we begin the ascent to the pass "4-kh". The path lies across the scree. The ascent to the pass from the overnight stays takes 2 hours 30 minutes.

Ascent to the top of Karagoy along the southern ridge, category 1B difficulty, length 700 m, height 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours.

Karagoy via the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14. From the initial bivouac: Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque. Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass. From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts. Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge: From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Aidarsok (5127 m) via the North Ridge, difficulty category 5A, climbed in 1977 by a group of climbers led by I.K. Korenev.

Climbing class — technical Climbing area, ridge — Alai Ridge, Pamir-Alai Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Aidarbek, 5127 m, via the North Ridge Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 100 m length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff.: 250 m average steepness: 55° Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating IC: