Alay Mountains

Ascent to the summit of Gelintash 3900 m via the right western edge, complexity category 4A.

Gelintas 3900 View from NW ridge of p. Kupriyanova Gelintas 3900 www.alpfederation.ru

Climbing passport for "Little Prince" peak (4240 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall, category 5B, height difference 620 m, 109 driven pitons.

Ascent Log I. Ascent category: rock climbing Region: Pamir-Alay Peak: p. 4240 "Little Prince" via the left part of the Eastern wall Approximate difficulty: 5B category Route description: rock climbing, height difference 620 m (wall section 590 m), average steepness of the wall 71°, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty — 700 m Number of pitons used: | For belay | For ITO | | :-------- | :------ | | Rock | 79 |

Description of the ascent route to Sagu peak (4650 m) via the north-eastern slopes and northern ridge. Climbing category 2B.

I. Climbing classification Climbing area Peak, its height, route taken Estimated category of difficulty Route characteristics Elevation gain Length of sections Total route length Average slope Pitons hammered in:

First ascent to the summit "Novichok" (3940 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, cat. diff. 1B, with a description of the route and necessary equipment.

First ascent to the summit "Novichok" via the South-East edge (Photo № 1 and Photo № 2). The "Novichok" summit is located in the North-Western spurs of the Alai ridge, in the lower reaches of the "Kalkush" glacier. The approach to the "Novichok" summit can be made: from the "Kalkush" gorge along the river of the same name to the "Kalkush" pass, with an ascent to it in 6 hours; along the "Dugoba" gorge to the confluence of the Uliter and Ak-Tash rivers and further along the Surmetash river with an ascent to the Kalkush pass from the North-East, 6 hours. The ascent to the "Kalkush" pass is category 1B. In the lower part, there are screes and further on snow, it takes 2-3 hours. The ascent to the "Novichok" summit along the South-East edge is carried out from the pass along the 200 m scree, then a rocky ascent along rocks of medium and easy difficulty - 450-500 m, which leads to a rocky ledge. Bypassing the "gendarme" on the left - 25 m (ropes are necessary). The second "gendarme" is passed head-on along a rocky chimney (stretching ropes), 15 m. Further ascent along rocks of medium difficulty - 3 ropes and the summit.

Passport of the ascent to Pik XXII Olimpiady via the center of the East Face, characteristics of the route, technical difficulty, and details of the ascent by a team of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp in 1980.

Ascent Passport Ascent category — rock climbing Ascent area — Archа-Kanysh gorge (Pamir-Alay) Ascent route — Peak XXII Olympiad (4550 m) via the center of the Eastern wall Ascent characteristics: total altitude difference — 900 m, wall section difference — 450 m, average wall steepness — 85°, wall length — 510 m Pitons driven: rock — 130 pcs. (including for TAE — 11 pcs.), bolt — 15 pcs. (including for TAE — 9 pcs.), chocks — 107 pcs. (including for TAE — 15 pcs.) Time to reach the summit — 36.5 hours Time on the wall — 27 hours

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Sur-Too (4197 m) via the Southeast Ridge, Category I difficulty.

Group Equipment I. Main rope 40 m - 3 pcs. Rock pitons - 10 pcs. Carabiners - 10 pcs. Hammers - 2 pcs. Ladders - 4 pcs. III. Peak Sur-ToO Ascent via the south-eastern ridge, route 1A cat. difficulty (see diagram in Fig. 2). The route was traversed on October 31, 1972 by a group consisting of Inozemtsev Yu.P. (leader), Telbuh P.A., Nehaenko A.A. Location of the summit and ascent routes

Ascent certificate for Lenigradets peak (5,040 m) via the North Face, rated 5B difficulty, climbed by a team led by Sergey Tarasovich in 1960.

Ascent Certificate Ascent classification: technical Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge Peak, its height: Leninградец, 5040 m, via the central part of the north face, ascent route: qualifying route. Difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1200 m Average slope: 76°. Length of sections: 3–4 difficulty category – 140 m

### Description of the Ascent Route to Peak Uzbekistan via the Northeast Face Detailed analysis of the technical difficulties and assessment of the route's complexity category.

Ascent Passport Ascent class - technically challenging. Ascent area - Peak Uzbekistan 5150 m above sea level via the left bastion of the northeast wall. Difficulty category - approximately 5B. Route characteristics height difference 935 m average steepness 75° length of sections | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |

Description of the ascent route to Peak 4870 (Alai Range) with a difficulty category of 5A from the northeast.

Passport I. Class of ascent — technical. Area of ascent, ridge — Sauk-Jailyau gorge, Alai ridge. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4870 (proposed name — p. Pamyati 4-kh) — from the southeast. Proposed difficulty category — 5A. Route characteristics: height difference — 870 m. Length of sections R5–R6 cat. diff. — 650 m. Average slope 45°. Pitons driven — for belay, for creating, etc. | | | | | :-------------- | :----- | :-- |

Route 2B category of complexity to the summit Chelyabinskiy rabochiy via North-eastern ridge, 1000 m long, ascent time 3.5-4 hours.

Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.