Khrebet Inylchektau

Report on the ascent made by the Sever sports club team from Severodvinsk to Peak Pobeda via the north-eastern spur.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: high-altitude technical. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort. Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent. Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.

Description of the passage of category 5B route to Peak Pobeda via v. Vazhi Pshaveli from Dikiy pass in 2003.

Ascent Passport Region: Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier Peak name: Peak Pobeda, route name — Pobeda Main via v. Vazi Pshaveli with pass. Diky Proposed — 5B category of difficulty. Route character: combined Route height difference: 3000 m Route length: Section length: Average steepness of the main route part: "Hooks" left on the route: total; including pitons.

Report on the ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439 m via the North Ridge by the team of CS SDO "Spartak" in the high-altitude climbing category in 1970.

Federation of Alpineism of the USSR 1970 Alpinism Championship Report on the ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439 m via the Northern ridge (Northeastern edge) by the combined team of CS DSO “Spartak” in the category of high-altitude ascents. Leningrad 1970 I. Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object The most southerly and largest ridge of the Soviet Tian Shan is the Kokshaal-Tau ridge, along which the border between the Soviet Union and China runs. The highest section of the ridge, stretching for 115 km, constitutes the massif of Peak Pobeda, the most northerly seven-thousander on Earth (7439 m). To the north of the Chon-Teren pass, the Ak-Tau ridge branches off the Kokshaal-Tau ridge to the northwest, separating the Zvezdochka glacier and the upper reaches of the Inylchek glacier. The northern slopes of Peak Pobeda rise above the Zvezdochka glacier from the Chon-Teren pass to the Diky pass. They represent a grandiose, almost sheer rock wall with alternating belts of dark and light-colored rocks. Only on individual ledges of the ridges and in the less steep parts of the wall can ice accumulate, forming powerful hanging glaciers from which large sections of ice continually break off, crashing down in enormous avalanches.

Report on the first ascent of the west wall of Khan-Tengri peak (6,995 m) by the team from Odessa regional council of the "Avangard" sports society in 1982.

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83 Report on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Ascent of the CS VDSO "Trud" team to the summit Pobeda Eastern (7060 m) via the North Face in Tian Shan, 6th cat. of diff., first ascent.

Passport High-altitude category Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face Category 6B assumed, first ascent Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face) Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m). Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Report on the ascent made by the "Bars" alpine club team to Peak Neru and Zapadnaya Pobeda in the Central Tien Shan in 1995 via a Category III route.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan. Ascent route — Peak Neru – Western Pobeda. Complexity category — 6B (approximate). Ascent characteristics: route length — approx. 10450 m. height difference — 2750 m. average steepness up to the northern shoulder of Peak Neru — 60°.

Report on the ascent to Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the West Ridge, complexity category 5B-6A.

Ascent Passport Ascent Class — High-altitude Ascent Area — Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge Ascent Route — Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via 3rd category route, through Peak Pobeda West, from Glacier Zvezdochka Complexity Category — 5B–6A, combined Route Characteristics: height difference — 3240 m; of which wall section — 980 m; total route length — 8650 m; wall section length — 1450 m;

Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the West summit from the Diky pass, complexity category 5B, made by the expedition team "NEVA" in August 1999.

Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge Peak Pobeda Gl. summit (7439 m) via West summit from Dikiy pass from Zvezdochka glacier Category of complexity — 5B Height difference — 3039 m Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40°. Pitons driven: rock pitons — 5* bolt pitons — 8 chocks — 6

Ascent to Peak Pobeda via Vaja Pshavela, grade 5B, altitude difference 3039 m, duration 5 days.

Arkhangelsk region, Severodvinsk Sports club "Sever" Ascent Passport. Ascent classification: high-altitude ascents to peaks above 6990 m, Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek glacier. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via Vazha Pshavela Complexity category: 5B category. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 3039 m (by altimeter); Pitons used:

Report on the ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the joint expedition of the "Spartak" society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in 1956.

Report On the Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the Joint Expedition of the Spartak Society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in July-August 1956 Description of the Area, Brief Description of Previous Ascent Attempts, and Expedition Objectives Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) is located in the eastern Tian Shan, in the East Kok-Shaal-Tau range, along the state border between the Soviet Union and the Chinese People's Republic. The section of the range where Peak Pobeda is situated stretches latitudinally and represents a vast glaciated massif - a wall about 15 kilometers long, sharply rising above the surrounding mountains. Even the lowest parts of the wall exceed 6.5 km in height. At the foot of the northern slopes of the wall lies the Zvezdochka Glacier, a major tributary of the Inylchek Glacier. The wall rises above the Zvezdochka Glacier throughout its length by 2.5-3 km. The highest point of the massif, Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m), is located in the middle part of the massif. Here, the ridge is elevated 600-700 m above the rest of the range for about 500-600 m, with no significant changes in height along this section. On the northern slope of the wall, a prominent counterfort extends towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. To the east, the massif is bounded by the sharp and deep Chon-Tareng pass. The pass saddle is limited on the side of Peak Pobeda by a local rise in the ridge (about 6900 m), which we will conditionally refer to as the Eastern Peak of Pobeda. To the northeast of the pass lies Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m), from which a heavily dissected ridge, Ak-Tau, extends westward.