Arkhangelsk region, Severodvinsk Sports club "Sever"

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent classification: high-altitude ascents to peaks above 6990 m,
2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via Vazha Pshavela
4. Complexity category: 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 3039 m (by altimeter);
6. Pitons used:

7. Team's travel hours: 41 hours, days — 5.
8. Overnights in tents, one on descent in a cave.
9. Ascent participants: leader — Sergey Konstantinovitch Penzov, Master of Sports of International Class, Severodvinsk, Lesnaya str., 52-2 participant — Mikhail Grigorievitch Strelkov, Candidate for Master of Sports, Severodvinsk, Malaya Kudma str., 13-49
10. Team coach: Mikhail Vasilyevich Ishutin
11. Ascent schedule: route start: Peak Pobeda – August 17, 1999 summit — August 19, 1999 return to base camp — August 21, 1999
12. Issuing organization's address: Sports club "Sever", Severodvinsk, Lenin Ave., 14 Panorama of Peak Pobeda massif.

Arkhangelsk region, Severodvinsk Sports club "Sever"

Tactical actions.

On the route, we worked as a single rope team. On extended avalanche-prone slopes, we moved individually. The first day was one of the most challenging; we worked for 13 hours, covering the distance from the Dikiy Pass to the Vazha Pshavela peak. The second day was less demanding — 6 hours to 7200 m. On the third day, we reached the summit in 3 hours and then, having traversed the entire summit ridge to the east, at the beginning of the descent to Chon-Toren, we made the difficult decision to return via the ascent route due to a sharp deterioration in weather and time constraints. After the first stage, it took us a full 7 hours to return to the previous night's bivouac site.

Overnights:

• 1st overnight at 18:00 on a snowy slope before the Vazha Pshavela peak. We did not make it to the cave behind the peak due to deep fresh snow and significant fatigue. We trampled a good platform on a gentle slope near the last rocks.
• 2nd overnight at 15:00 under the rock "Pail" on the Peak Pobeda ridge (7200 m). We did not proceed to the summit as we planned to make the next overnight on the other side of the peak.
• 3rd overnight at 18:00 at the previous night's bivouac site. The prolonged working day and fatigue are explained by the fact that the ascent to the summit was made with all bivouac gear with the intention of traversing.

Descent:

• The next day, August 20, we descended to the Dikiy Pass in 10 hours and stopped in a cave due to very slushy snow.
• On August 21, in 2 hours, we descended to the rescue team waiting for us on the Zvezdochka glacier and together with them returned to base camp on the same day.

Rescue team's location and actions.

• The rescue group was constantly based at the MTAС "Tien Shan" base camp, maintaining radio contact daily at 9:00 and 20:00.
• They also monitored the emergency frequencies at 13:00 and 17:00.
• At Valiev's camp, we were expected by a team from Yekaterinburg, with whom we had an agreement for assistance in case of an emergency.