The Summit!
Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge.
Bivouacs:
- №3
- №4
The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow.
In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest".
The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
- strong wind,
- poor visibility.
Sometimes it clears up slightly - this helps.
I end up on ice of IV category of difficulty due to the impossibility of finding an easier path.
I. I cross the saddle. On this side of the ridge, the wind is less strong.
I try to traverse directly to the main path to пик Коммунизма (I mean «ребро Бородкина» - transl.). But:
- the snow is deep,
- the slope is steep,
- it's too dangerous.
So I go straight down. It's not so steep here yet.
At the point where the angle changes and becomes steeper, I trigger an avalanche (from the top). Now it's safe - I can run down (hurray).
Further down, I encounter crevasses, but I see the marking of the main path and traverse directly to it - it's safer now.
- I meet Volodya and Oleg. They take care of me and share their tent with me. K. The passage here is very frightening (you know). Visibility is poor. I constantly hear avalanches. I move as fast as I can, but I want to go even faster.
Translated by Gvozdev Anatoly - participant of the expedition and organizer of the visit. Expedition dates: July 18, 1992 - August 9, 1992. Expedition leader: Lozovsky A.M.