Russian Mountaineering Championship
High-altitude class
2018
REPORT
of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team
on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma
via the Borodkin route
Ascent Details
- Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)
- Peak, route: Peak Kommunizma 7495 m, via S slope from Walter glacier through BPP and "Big Barrier" (variant of Borodkin route via Peak Dushanbe)
- Category: 5A
- Route type: snow-ice
Height difference: 3000 m
Route length: 7250 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 100 m Length of sections with 6th category difficulty: 0 m Average slope of the main route: –28° Number of pitons left on the route: 0
- Number of pitons used on the route: 0
- Team's total climbing hours: 40.5 h, 5 days
- Team leader: Klimenko Viktoriya, Candidate Master of Sports
Team members:
- Nosenko Mikhail, Candidate Master of Sports
- Shpilevoy Dmitry, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Pyatnitsin Alexander Alekseyevich
- Departure to the route: August 5, 2018, 05:30
Summit reached: August 8, 2018, 13:00 Return to base camp: August 10, 2018, 12:00
Photo Report
Ascent to the camp at 5300 m, August 5
Camp at 5300 m
Ascent to "Grudi" (6200 m), August 6. Lots of snow and ice, ropes used in some places.
Overnight stay on the 5900 m plateau, August 6. Ascent to Peak Dushanbe 6950 m, August 7.
Pre-summit ridge, 7000 m altitude, August 8, 12:00 pm.
Summit, August 8, 13:00.
