ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent category: Snow and Ice
  2. Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
  4. Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
  6. Number of pitons: ice screws 30
  7. Climbing time: 14 hours
  8. Number of bivouacs: 2
  9. Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:
    1. GOL'DI, I.V. — 2nd sports category
    2. HIJESALU, L.R. — 2nd sports category
    3. SALK, A.A. — 2nd sports category
    4. SUUK, N.A. — CMS (Candidate Master of Sports)
    5. TANNER, R.N. — 1st sports category
    6. PARK, V.V. — 2nd sports category
    7. TREIAR, YU.YU. — 2nd sports category
  10. Team coach: PRIYMETS Ilmar

Area Map. Peak 6047 m (Tallinn Peak). Central Pamir. Yazgulem Ridge.

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M 1:100 000

DateSectionAverage steepness (degrees)Length (m)Terrain typeDifficultyConditionWeatherRock PitonsIce PitonsNotes
August 18, 1984R0–R115°300 msnow1good
R1–R245°40 mice3–"–4
R2–R315°200 msnow2–"–
R3–R435°80 mice3–"–9
August 19, 1984R4–R510°1000 msnow1–"–
R5–R650°20 mice4–"–5
R6–R745°100 mice3–"–12

UIAA SCHEME

P. 6047 (TALLINN PEAK)

SectionTerrain TypeCategorySteepnessLength
R6–R7++++++ ++++++345°100 m
R5–R6++++++ ++++++450°20 m
R4–R5++++++ ++++++110°1000 m
R3–R4++++++ ++++++335°80 m
R2–R3++++++ ++++++215°200 m
R1–R2++++++ ++++++345°40 m
R0–R1++++++ ++++++115°300 m

img-1.jpegwww.alpfederation.ruimg-2.jpegwww.alpfederation.ruimg-3.jpegwww.alpfederation.ru

Sources

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