Ascent to the "Malysh" peak via the south-eastern ridge

The "Malysh" peak is the closest peak to the south of the Abdugagor-P pass in the "Academy of Sciences" ridge. The northern slopes of the peak descend directly to the Abdugagor-P pass.

The "Malysh" peak encloses from the east the cirque formed by the peaks:

• peak 5660 m
• 5800 m
• "Malysh" peak

The ascent was made from the Abdugagor-P pass. The route is snow-ice. The approximate height of the peak is 5400–5500 m.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdugagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit to the ice. Then the path goes through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one, and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdugagor glacier, which rises steeply (1 hour).

We ascend along the trail to under the icefall of the Abdugagor glacier, where there are flat areas with water (1 hour). After resting on the sites, we pass the icefall in rope teams and with crampons (40 minutes). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°).

The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in rope teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 hours). Behind the third ascent, the glacier flattens and turns into a snow plateau.

On the right side (along the way) of the plateau, a cave is dug, where we spend the night. The height is 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2

From the cave, we ascend to the south into the cirque of the peaks: p. 5660 and 5800 m and "Malysh" peak to the slopes of the peak 5660 m. The ascent is along gentle snowfields.

Having reached the base of the "Malysh" peak, we turn to it to the right and ascend to a snow pad, from which the ascent to the slope of "Malysh" begins.

The ascent begins in the direction of the upper section of a small rocky ridge. The bergschrund is passed along a snow bridge. The slope is snowy. Insurance is alternate through an ice axe. From the pad to the rocks, approximately 4 ropes.

From the first ridge of rocks, the ascent along the snowy slope upwards in the direction of the second rocky island. The path along the snow, to the right of the rocks (3–4 m to the right of the rocky ridge), leads through 3 ropes into a snowy mulda. It is not advisable to go far to the right of the rocky ridge in this section - there is a corniche.

From the mulda, the ascent first along the snow, and then along the rocks leads to the second snowy mulda. From it, a gentle snowy ridge goes upwards to the right. The ridge gradually turns into a snowy slope with a ridge going up to the left to the forepeak.

Along the ridge from the mulda, we go up 2 ropes. Then we turn left onto the slope and ridge to the forepeak. It is not possible to climb more than 2 ropes straight up the ridge - there is a corniche. You need to turn left upwards, towards the forepeak.

Having passed over the ridge, we descend into the saddle between the forepeak and the peak. From the saddle along the ridge - to the peak.

Descent along the ascent path. There is 1 ice screw driven in on the descent. The movement is alternate with insurance through an ice axe. When ascending to the first snowy mulda (and descending in this section), if there is a thin layer of snow - insurance through ice screws.

The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The group suggests naming the peak "Malysh". The ascent to the "Malysh" peak along the south-eastern ridge resembles the route to Shaurtu-bashi from the south along the couloir 2B cat. sl. in the Bezengi region of the Caucasus. Taking into account also the height of the peak and the complexity of the icefall of the Abdugagor-P pass, the group believes that the ascent to the "Malysh" peak along the south-eastern ridge is 2B cat. sl.

Group composition: Leader Miklevich O.A. — 1st sp. разряд. Participants:

• Filimonov G. — 1st sp. разряд.
• Mokhova E.N. — 1st sp. разряд.
• Goryacheva V.S. — 2nd sp. разряд.
• Smirnov Yu.I. — 2nd sp. разряд.
• Milstein I. — 2nd sp. разряд.

Ascent route