The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of:

1. A. V. Abramov
2. G. P. Derovoy
3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasiliev via route 4A cat. diff. in 1967) Release officer — V. G. Tarkhanov — Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor

Central Pamir

Ranges of the Fedchenko Glacier headwaters.

Appendix №3 Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Vas'kova D (A. Abramov, 1976) in the Database of Climbing Route Descriptions FAR №2840.pdf

PAMIR

BERUOVIE

LETNIK

FERMENO

Description of the first ascent to Peak T.E. Vas'kova (6100 m) via a combined route of 5A category difficulty along the southern ridge. The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" sports society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of: Leader I. A. Ya. Abramov, 2. G. P. Lernovoi, 3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasilyeva via a 4A category route in 1967). Launching officer - B.G. Tarkhanov - Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor.

Technical Description of the Route

2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S. From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour. Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope. Movement along the entire path is in rope teams. Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours. The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:

• Pik Revolyutsii,
• Pik Fikker,
• Pik 26 Baku Commissars,

29

TECHNICAL CLIMBING CATEGORY

REPORT

Paustovsky's report on the ascent of Peak 6150 m / Peak S.A. Lavochkin / via the ice wall of the southwest ridge by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineering team, Pamir, August 1970 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":613,"height":782,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/kiiwctW7YfDTrYuGXfW6in9hITGhWxZz/img-0.jpeg","id":64770347})

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The gathering place for the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineers in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolution on the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The goal of the ascent was Peak 6150 m in the southwest ridge of Peak "26 Baku Commissars". The dominant peaks of the area are six-thousanders located in the northern part of the valley:

• Peak Revolution,
• Peak 26 Baku Commissars,

Description

Ascent to Peak Peredovoy via the Northwest Edge (First Ascent of the Route)

Geographical Information

Peak Peredovoy (6056 m) is located in the uppermost part of the Fedchenko Glacier area, in the northwest spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge, which branches off to the northwest opposite Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars (see diagram). The northeastern slopes of the spur are steep and hidden by hanging glaciers; the western slopes are less steep and composed of shattered rocks and steep glaciated scree, most of which is covered with snow. The northwestern end of the spur drops steeply towards the Fedchenko Glacier (see photograph of the general view of Peak Peredovoy). The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier have relatively gentle relief with a large number of hidden crevasses. Near the end of the spur, the crevasses are wide and open. Before the ascent described, Peak Peredovoy was climbed twice: by Dobrynin's group (August 12, 1960) and by Miklevich's group, which ascended Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars. Both times the ascent was made from the western slopes - the easiest route for ascent - rated 3B category of difficulty.

Approaches

The approaches to Peak Peredovoy were made via the following route. From the Lower Base Camp (altitude 3900 m), located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier, to the Upper Base Camp on the Fedchenko Glacier (altitude 5000 m) and further to the camp under Peak Revolyutsii (from which the ascent to Peak Revolyutsii by Myshlyaev's group was observed); see diagram.

1. Expedition Team Composition

The team was assembled based on the principle of personal selection, with preferential right to participate in the expedition given to high-altitude climbers who took part in events organized by the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions (AUCCTU) in the Pamir region in 1952-1953 and demonstrated good performance, as well as capable young climbers. The total number of team members was set at 25 people, including:

• 21 climbers
• 4 support staff The expedition team included:

1. Kazakova E.A. — expedition leader, Honored Master of Sports, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, research fellow at the Research Institute, Moscow.
2. Ugarov A.S. — leader of the assault group, Master of Sports, member of the "Khimik" Sports Society, chief technologist at a factory, Leningrad.
3. Ivanov E.A. — Honored Master of Sports, member of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, employee of the Central Council of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, Moscow.
4. Ivanov A.I. — Master of Sports, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, institute lecturer, Moscow.

1. Climbing Passport

1. Area: Yazgulemsky Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.12
2. Name of the peak: Peak Revolyutsii. Name of the route: via the north-eastern slope from Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier (via the plateau of Vertikal Pass).
3. Proposed category — 5A cat. diff.
4. Character of the route: Ice and snow

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazglem Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Fedchenko Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12
2. Peak name: Pik Revolyutsii. Route name: via the rib on the eastern edge of the northern wall.
3. Proposed – 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1524 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3355 m.

4.12.38

Armed Forces of the USSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii 6974 m via the northwestern wall from the Fedchenko Glacier, 6th cat. cl., by the combined team of the Armed Forces of the USSR. Military-technical ascent. The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution. 1967 Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii is one of the highest peaks in our homeland.

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the NE wall from Fedchenko Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 1675 m. Route length: 2425 m, wall section — 1114 m, sections of 5–6 difficulty level — 880 m, including 100 m of 6th difficulty level. Average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 63° (5300–6320 m), including 80° — 110 m, 85° — 60 m, 90° — 40 m.
6. Use of protection points: | Pitons | Placements | | :----------------------: | :-------: | :-------: | :-------: | | Rock | Bolt | Ice | |