1. Expedition Team Composition

The team was assembled based on the principle of personal selection, with preferential right to participate in the expedition given to high-altitude climbers who took part in events organized by the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions (AUCCTU) in the Pamir region in 1952-1953 and demonstrated good performance, as well as capable young climbers.

The total number of team members was set at 25 people, including:

21 climbers
4 support staff

The expedition team included:

Kazakova E.A. — expedition leader, Honored Master of Sports, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, research fellow at the Research Institute, Moscow.
Ugarov A.S. — leader of the assault group, Master of Sports, member of the "Khimik" Sports Society, chief technologist at a factory, Leningrad.
Ivanov E.A. — Honored Master of Sports, member of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, employee of the Central Council of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, Moscow.
Ivanov A.I. — Master of Sports, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, institute lecturer, Moscow.
Gozhev A.S. — Master of Sports, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, factory engineer, Moscow.
Evseev I.M. — Master of Sports, member of the "Iskra" Sports Society, secondary school teacher, Khimki, Moscow Region.
Skorobogatov P.K. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, head of the instrument cabinet at the Research Institute, Moscow.
Kovyorkov A.I. — 1st sports category, member of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, factory engineer, Moscow.
Ryspaev E. — 1st sports category, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, factory engineer, Moscow.
Selidzhanov R.E. — 1st sports category, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, engineer at the Electrotechnical Combine, Moscow.
Shlyaptsev B.S. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, factory employee, Moscow.
Shkrabkin A.S. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, fitter at a factory, Moscow.
Shilkin M.F. — 1st sports category, member of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society, cook, Kiev.
Solodovnikov I.G. — 1st sports category, member of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society, alpine instructor, Alma-Ata.
Andreev R.N. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, factory technologist, Moscow.
Andreev A.P. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, lathe operator at a factory, Moscow.
Isaev N.S. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, fitter at a factory, Moscow.
Danilovich A.K. — 2nd sports category, member of the "Avangard" Sports Society, fitter at the Uralmash factory, Sverdlovsk.
Maslov G.V. — 2nd sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society, factory employee, Moscow.
Andriashin P.A. — 2nd sports category, member of the "Avangard" Sports Society, fitter at the Uralmash factory, Sverdlovsk.
Shvedov P.M. — 2nd sports category, member of the "Iskra" Sports Society, head of the laboratory at the Research Institute, Moscow.
Uspensky S.G. — expedition quartermaster, employee of the Promzerno project, Moscow.
Kertsman L.I. — expedition doctor, employee of the Sanitary and Epidemiological Station of the Proletarsky district, Moscow.
Grebenshchikov V.G. — radio operator, employee of the regional communications office, Osh.
Myrsova N.I. — cook, secondary school teacher, Moscow.

2. Material Support

The expedition was primarily equipped with gear and equipment acquired for events organized by the AUCCTU in the Altai and Pamir regions in 1952-1953.

Some equipment was newly manufactured at production enterprises of the AUCCTU in Moscow and Leningrad.

Canned and concentrated food products were purchased in Moscow, while other supplies were obtained in Osh according to funds allocated by the Ministry of Trade.

The expedition participants were fed at a rate of 30 rubles per person per day. The food was of high quality and diverse.

A GAZ-67 vehicle was allocated to support the expedition. Some cargo was transported from Osh to the Tanymas valley by air.

The AUCCTU Secretariat allocated 125,000 rubles for the expedition.

3. Expedition Preparation

Intensive preparation for the expedition began in January 1954. Uspensky and Ezerinsky worked on logistical support from March. All equipment was manufactured and sent to Osh from:

Moscow
Biysk
Stalinabad

Food supplies were purchased and sent to Osh by passenger train.

During the preparation phase, issues such as:

radio communication support,
air cargo delivery,
assistance from border authorities,
and others were resolved through relevant ministries.

All Moscow-based participants trained regularly on weekends, undertaking hikes with 15-25 kg backpacks over 20-30 km.

Out-of-town participants (e.g., Ugarov, Shilkin) trained independently and reported regularly.

During training and general meetings, participants:

developed teamwork,
familiarized themselves with the Pik Revolyutsii area,
planned tactical strategies for various stages of the expedition.

On May 22, Evseev I.M. traveled to Stalinabad, then to Osh and the Pamir region to:

arrange equipment transportation to Osh,
repair equipment,
coordinate accommodation for participants in Osh,
arrange auto transportation,
organize a pack caravan.

On June 24, Uspensky S.G., the expedition quartermaster, flew to Osh.

On June 28, Kazakova E.A., the expedition leader, flew to Frunze and then to Osh.

By July 4, the entire team had assembled in Osh. All issues related to the expedition had been resolved, and participants were able to depart without delay.

4. Expedition Execution

On July 7, the expedition team departed Osh in three vehicles, traveling along the Pamir Highway to the village of Muzkol.

From Muzkol, they continued another 34 km along the valley to the Kukuibel-Su river, where a camp was established.

On July 10, the first group, accompanied by a caravan of pack animals, set out on the route: Kukuibel — Apak Pass — Kok-Dzhar valley — Tanymas valley — tongue of the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier.

The caravan's journey was challenging. Camels only reached the Kok-Dzhar farm, and the cargo had to be transferred to kutases, requiring an additional transshipment camp.

The route to the glacier tongue lacked a trail, and the caravan had to cross mountain streams, necessitating complex fording operations, particularly across the Northern Tanymas and Tanymas rivers.

The first group's task was to:

select a site for the base camp,
transport part of the cargo to the base camp,
organize the receipt of cargo to be air-dropped in the vicinity of the glacier tongue.

The group successfully completed this task. By July 23, the necessary cargo and main team members had concentrated at the base camp, established near a lake, behind the lateral moraine of the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier tongue.

On July 24, a group consisting of Ugarov, Skorobogatov, Solodovnikov, Shilkin, and Shkrabkin departed from the base camp to explore the route along the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier to Pik Revolyutsii.

On July 25, shuttle cargo transfers began under the leadership of A.I. Ivanov, involving all team members except the quartermaster and cook.

Transfers were conducted between camps: R0 (4050, base), R1 (4400), R2 (4800), R3 (5000), R4 (5500), R5 (6000).

Cargo transfers were intense, with participants transporting around 1000 kg of cargo from the base camp to R1 between July 25 and 27.

By August 3, the necessary cargo had been transported to R4 (5500), where the expedition leader, doctor, and radio operator with a radio station were also located.

On August 3, two groups (Ugarov and Skorobogatov, Gozhev and Kovyorkov) departed from R3 to explore the ascent route, which was planned to be a snow-ice wall partially traversed in 1952 by Ivanov E.I. and Kuzmin K.K.

Simultaneously, a group consisting of Danilovich, Andriashin, and Maslov ascended Pik 6500.

On August 6, participants involved in the shuttle operations rested in R3.

On August 14, a group of 11 people, led by Ugarov, departed from R4 to ascend Pik Revolyutsii.

On August 17, at 13:00, the group reached the summit and descended to 6420 m the same day.

On August 18, the group returned to R3 in the evening.

On August 21, the expedition began its return journey with a caravan and arrived in Osh on August 28.

Description of the Ascent Route to Pik Revolyutsii (Pamir, 6987 m)

The ascent was preceded by traversing the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier, approximately 37 km long. Shuttle operations to transport cargo required 12 days, with each participant covering around 200 km of complex glacier terrain.

Technical difficulties on the glacier included:

a challenging icefall with numerous crevices and steep drops between R0 (4050) and R1 (4400)
deep snow cover due to inclement weather in the first half of summer

The group encountered upper icefall on the glacier three times while carrying cargo between R4 and R5.

Prolonged stay on the glacier, reconnaissance to 6500 m, and participation in transporting the injured Danilovich led to:

full acclimatization
excellent physical condition of the entire team

This enabled the team to undertake the ascent at a high pace, despite the large size of the assault group, with all participants in good spirits.

Day 1 (August 14)

After a two-day rest in R4 (5500), the assault group, consisting of 11 people, departed for the summit.

The group was organized into four rope teams:

1st rope team: Ugarov (leader) — Skorobogatov
2nd rope team: Gozhev — Shlyaptsev — Kovyorkov
3rd rope team: Shilkin — Shkrabkin — Andreev R.
4th rope team: Solodovnikov — Selidzhanov — Ryspaev

Rucksacks weighed 22-24 kg. The group departed R4 at 13:00.

By 17:30, they had traversed the icefall, reached the R5 (6000) plateau, and established a camp.

Day 2 (August 15)

The group departed at 10:00, traversing the snow plateau and approaching a 400-meter snow-ice wall.

They encountered three subglacial crevices, which were traversed using simultaneous and alternating movement, with careful belaying.

The group faced challenges, including deep, soft snow and steep slopes.

By 15:00, they had reached a snow-ice ledge at 55-60°.

The ascent continued, with participants using belays and cutting steps in hard ice.

By 17:30, the group had overcome the ledge and changed direction to the left, traversing a 45-50° slope.

They reached a saddle at 6420 m at 20:10, after 10 hours of challenging climbing.

Day 3 (August 16)

The group departed the saddle at 10:30, traversing a snowfield and approaching a steep snow slope.

They encountered deep snow, crusty snow, and strong headwinds.

By 15:00, they had overcome the slope and reached a height of around 6700 m.

Due to worsening weather, they established a bivouac, securing their tents in deep snow.

Day 4 (August 17)

Despite poor weather, the group departed at 10:45, ascending a counterfort to a saddle between the left (southern) and western (main) peaks.

They traversed a snow ridge, using belays, and reached the summit at 12:30.

The group built a cairn, left a note, and observed the surrounding landscape.

Day 5 (August 18)

The group began their descent, following the ascent route.

They encountered challenging conditions, including steep slopes and rockfall.

By 14:40, they had descended to R5 (6000) and continued to R3.

Time Breakdown by Stages

Stage	Time	Day
From R4 (5500) to R5 (6000)	4 hours 30 minutes	Day 1
From R5 (6000) to 6420 m	9 hours 30 minutes	Day 2
From 6420 m to 6700 m	8 hours 0 minutes	Day 3
From the summit to 6700 m	1 hour 0 minute	Day 4
From 6700 m to 6420 m	3 hours 30 minutes	Day 4
From 6420 m to R5 (6000)	3 hours 30 minutes	Day 5
From R5 (6000) to R3 (5000)	6 hours 0 minutes	Day 5

Conclusions

The ascent route to Pik Revolyutsii is classified as category 5B-6B due to its technical difficulties, high altitude, and exposure to steep slopes.

The route requires a well-organized expedition, thorough planning, and a team with experience in high-altitude climbing.

The ascent description was compiled by A. Ugarov, Master of Sports; A. Gozhev, Master of Sports; and B. Shlyaptsev, 1st sports category.

Alpinism and Tourism Sector, Physical Culture and Sports Department, AUCCTU.

List of Participants in the Ascent to Pik Revolyutsii

Ugarov A.S. — Master of Sports, member of the "Khimik" Sports Society, leader of the assault group.

Ugarov has extensive experience in high-altitude climbing, having led an ascent to Pik E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) in 1953.
Gozhev A.S. — Master of Sports, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society.

Gozhev has significant experience in high-altitude climbing and played a key role in the expedition.
Kovyorkov A.I. — 1st sports category, member of the "Torpedo" Sports Society.

Kovyorkov is a capable young high-altitude climber who participated in AUCCTU events in 1952-1953 and 1954.
Skorobogatov P.K. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society.

Skorobogatov is a capable and enduring high-altitude climber who participated in AUCCTU events.
Selidzhanov R.E. — 1st sports category, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society.

Selidzhanov is a capable young high-altitude climber who participated in AUCCTU events.
Ryspaev E. — 1st sports category, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society.

Ryspaev is a capable young high-altitude climber who actively participated in the expedition.
Shkrabkin A.S. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society.

Shkrabkin is a capable young high-altitude climber who participated in the 1952 AUCCTU high-altitude gathering.
Andreev R.N. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society.

Andreev is a capable young high-altitude climber who participated in the 1952 AUCCTU high-altitude gathering.
Shlyaptsev B.S. — 1st sports category, member of the "Krylya Sovetov" Sports Society.

Shlyaptsev participated in the 1952 AUCCTU high-altitude gathering and was active during the expedition.
Shilkin M.F. — 1st sports category, member of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society.

Shilkin is a strong and enduring climber who participated in the ascent.
Solodovnikov I.G. — 1st sports category, member of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society.

Solodovnikov is a strong and enduring climber with experience in Tian Shan ascents.

Report on the Ascent to Pik Revolyutsii (6987 m, Pamir)

The AUCCTU Physical Culture and Sports Department organized a reconnaissance of the upper Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier and Pik Revolyutsii in 1952.

After conducting several ascents to peaks above 6000 m and thorough reconnaissance, the participants concluded that:

the ascent to Pik Revolyutsii should be considered a high-altitude climb of the highest class
organizing and conducting an expedition to this area would be challenging due to its remoteness and inaccessibility

Following a successful expedition to Pik E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) in 1953, the AUCCTU decided to organize an expedition to Pik Revolyutsii in 1954.

The ascent to Pik Revolyutsii was seen as a step forward, enhancing the skills of leading high-altitude climbers.

The AUCCTU considered the ascent to Pik Revolyutsii as:

a test of maturity for the team of high-altitude climbers
a training exercise for future ascents to peaks above 7500-8000 m planned for 1955 and subsequent years

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