Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Classification

Technical

2. Ascent Area: Pamir range, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets, 5163 m

via the center of the southeast wall

4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B (2nd ascent)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200 m – 5163 m = 963 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 490 m: 5th category — 395 m, 6th category — 95 m, average steepness 72°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 119, ice — 0, bolt — 0, placements — 42 for creating ITO: rock — 29, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 35 (4 days)
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: 3 group nights, 2 good bivouacs, 1 sitting
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Leader: Klonin Oleg Stanislavovich, Candidate Master of Sports

• Participants: Andreev Vladimir Ivanovich, Master of Sports of the USSR
• Sorkin Alexander Vladimirovich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Zander Sergey Aydosovich, 1st sports rank

10. Team coach: Troshchinenko L.A., Honored Master of Sports II. Dates of departure and return: July 13–16, 1982 July 12 — approach to the route. July 16 — descent and return to the base camp.

Route diagram in UIAA symbols Route diagram in UIAA symbols (continued)

Protocol No.5 for the ascent to peak 5163 m via the center of the southeast wall, 5B category of difficulty, second ascent. Copy.

Group composition:

• Klonin O.S. — leader
• Andreev V.I.
• Sorkin A.V.
• Zander S.A.

Participants in the debriefing:

• Head of the gathering Glushkovsky A.E.
• Senior coach Troshchinenko L.A.
• Gathering participants Klonin O.S.

Klonin O.S. On July 12, we started the approach and stopped for the night at the end of the moraine under the wall at 17:30. On July 13, we started the route and reached a ledge under the buttress by 14:00. The first rope was worked by the Sorkin — Klonin O. team. According to the tactical plan, a bivouac was organized, and two ropes of the route — 80 m along the wall buttress — were processed. On July 14, we continued working from 10:00: first Sorkin, then Klonin. Climbing was of 5th category of difficulty. We passed eight ropes to the second bivouac, spending eight climbing hours. The bivouac was good, lying down. On July 15, from 9:00, we passed eight ropes, including three on the key section of the route. The Klonin — Sorkin team worked first. We established a bivouac two ropes from the summit at 21:00. On July 16, the group reached the summit at 9:00 and started descending along the eastern ridge towards peak 5120 m at 10:00. During the descent, we organized 3 sport descents and 4 rappels. The route was completed according to the tactical plan. There were no remarks about the participants; no insurance violations were observed. The route corresponds to the 5B category of difficulty in terms of length and climbing complexity, and due to the variety of terrain, it can be classified as a combined route. The total time for the route was 35 climbing hours, and the route length was 23 ropes.

Andreev V.I. The route is logical, mostly rock, complicated by ice accretions. The route is complex, often requiring the use of ITO. On the key section, a "pendulum" was organized, and backpacks were pulled up. The route corresponds to the 5B category of difficulty.

Sorkin A.V. There are no remarks about the team members. The ascent proceeded at a good pace, with a sufficient degree of safety and a margin of strength. The route is complex, with some parts being quite prone to rockfall, especially during the descent towards peak 5120 m. Therefore, we recommend that subsequent groups descend via the western ridge. The route corresponds to the 5–6 category of difficulty.

Zander S.A. I'm satisfied with the ascent. The route corresponds to the 5–6 category of difficulty. The upper part of the wall has many icicles and loose rocks, presenting additional challenges for climbers.

Conclusion of the releasing officer: The route is recommended as 5B category of difficulty. Leadership and participation are to be credited. July 17, 1982 (Troshchinenko L.)

Protocol was kept by (Zander S.)