Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical

  1. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Uryam gorge
  2. Peak 4800 m (Parus Vostochny) via the right part of the North-Eastern wall, rock
  3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Height difference: 900 m, length — 1090 m, length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 305 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge — 74° (3900–4510), base of the wall — summit — 60° (3900–4800)
  5. Pitons hammered on the route

Friends 74/22; rock pitons 67/32; ice screws 0/0; chocks 75/28; drilled pitons

  1. Team's walking hours: 4 hours and days — 5.
  2. Night stay: 0 — 2nd under the route, comfortable in a tent, 3rd — on an inclined platform, sitting, 4th — on the ridge
  3. Leader: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilyevich — Master of Sports

team members:

  • Andreitso Alexander Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
  • Vareikis Vladimir Alexandrovich — Master of Sports
  • Kuznetsov Alexander Alexandrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
  1. Coach: Vareikis Vladimir Alexandrovich — Master of Sports. Departure to the route: July 26, 1990

Summit: July 31, 1990. Return: July 31, 1990

Attached files

Sources

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