FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF UKRAINE

World Championship in Alpinism Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the team Ukraine — 2 (FACS Kharkov region) to peak Iskander 5120 m

Via the South wall. Route Zhiltsov's VI-A cat. sl. rock. Third ascent.

Poltavets E. I. — team leader Timko E. N.

Kharkov 2013

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich. MS. Coaches — Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Address: 61144, Kharkov, Akademika Pavlova str., 162A, apt. 118. Tel. +38095-125-33-40. Email poltalp@ukr.net
2. Timko Evgeny Nikolaevich. CMS. Kharkov.

Coaches:

• Sukhareva L. N.
• Kopeyka G. V.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alai. Turkestan ridge. Lailak gorge area, section 5.4.2 classifier of routes to mountain peaks 2008.
2. Peak Iskander via the South wall. Route Zhiltsov's
3. 6A cat. sl. Third ascent.
4. Route is rock.
5. Height difference: 920 m (by altimeter)

Route length: 1270 m. Length of sections V cat. sl.: 270 m Length of sections VI cat. sl.: 360 m

6. Average steepness of the route — 67

degrees. Main part of the route — 84 degrees

7. Used on the route:

rock hooks (and inserted elements) — 447, ice screws — 0, bolted stationary hooks (previously driven) — 2 (see Golubeva's), including for ITO — 0, total artificial points of support (ITO) used — 189. Hooks left on the route: total — 15 (on descent); including bolted — 0

8. Team's walking hours: 48.5 hours, 5 days.
9. Descent from the summit via the ascent route (6A cat. sl.)
10. Team leader: Poltavets Evgeny Ivanovich, MS, coaches Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V. Participant: Timko Evgeny Nikolaevich, CMS, coaches Sukhareva L. N., Kopeyka G. V.
11. Departure to the route: 10:00, July 11, 2013.

Reaching the summit: 6:30, August 16, 2013. Return to base camp: 21:00, August 16, 2013.

12. Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Kharkov region.
13. Responsible for the report — Poltavets E. I., poltalp@ukr.net DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT AREA Peak Iskander — 5120 m, located in the Turkestan ridge. Located in the upper reaches of the AkSu river, 30 km west of the Matchinsky node. AkSu river, merging with the KaraSu river, forms the Djetykuirik river, which flows into Lailak river. 30 km below the confluence of Djetykuirik and Lailak rivers are villages Katran and Uzguurush. They can be reached by car. Further, to base camp, located at an altitude of 2900 m, there is no road, horse-drawn transport is required. From Uzguurush village to base camp — about 6–7 hours walk.

The area is quite well освоен альпинистами thanks to an impressive set technically complex peaks and routes. In the gorge are located several five-thousanders:

• Peak Blok
• Aksu
• Admiralteets
• Petrogradets
• Iskander

The relief character of these peaks is distinguished by great steepness and smoothness.

On the South wall of Iskander there are 3 routes: Golubeva's 5B, Zhiltsov's 6A and Grishchenko's 6A.

All of them are characterized by:

• great steepness (about 85 %) of the main wall
• smoothed relief.

The peaks of the watershed ridge are composed mainly of large-block, little-cut granites. Northern spurs are composed of granite, limestone and further shales, at the contacts there are outputs pegmatites. ПИ POMPI-MOTUPTA

PODAYDEEP 5125 H

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