Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Start moving left and below the summit scree along the wall, then along the corner. Reach the flattening. 45 m IV

R1–R2. Move along the gentle rocks under the overhang. It provides protection from falling rocks. 40 m III

R2–R3. Move right towards the stream (rocks are falling along the stream). Left of the stream, climb the wall to reach the gentle rocks. 45 m IV

R3–R4. Approach the wall. Climb through the crack using artificial aids (IT) with underclimbs. 20 m II, 20 m VIA1

R4–R5. Climb right through the crack, followed by a difficult traverse (10 m). Reach the gentle, smooth rocks left of the stream and climb up. Set up a station at the exit to simple rocks. 15 m VIA2–A3, 35 m IV

R5–R6. Climb up, then through the corner, to reach the gentle rocks. Continue climbing up. 15 m IV, 30 m II

R6–R7. Climb right and up to the scree, then along the scree right and up to the rocky ridge. 100 m I

R7–R8. Climb along the ridge left and up to the base of the gentle, smooth slab. 80 m I–III

R8–R9. Climb the slab left and up, then straight up. Reach the internal corner. 40 m V+ A1

R9–R10. Climb 3 m up the corner, then left and up to a ledge. There's a convenient spot for a tent on the right. 15 m — V, 10 m I

R10–R11. Climb 5 m up the corner to a sloping ledge. Traverse right along the ledge to a нависающий внутренний угол (overhanging internal corner). Climb up using difficult artificial aids (IT), with rocks covered in a crust. Traverse right under the overhang to the base of the internal corner. 10 m IV, 20 m A2, 10 m VIA2

R11–R12. Climb up the нависающий угол (overhanging corner). It's better to set up a station before the corner ends, as protection becomes problematic further on. 30 m A2

R12–R13. Climb up to the end of the corner, then left, bypassing the нависающая стенка (overhanging wall). Climb up a thin crack using anchors to reach more favorable terrain. Continue climbing left and up. Set up a station at the base of a large internal corner, with a big выступ (ledge). 3 m A2, 10 m VI A2, 5 m A2, 15 m V

R13–R14. Climb up the internal corner (30 m V)

R14–R15. Continue climbing up the corner. Higher up, the corner turns into a chimney with a пробка (plug). 30 m VI A2

R15–R16. Traverse left and up along a ledge. There's a площадка (platform) for a tent here. 15 m III

R16–R17. Climb up the wall, aiming for the internal corner formed by a нашлепка (protuberance). Climb up the corner to a small ledge. 30 m V, 10 m VI

R17–R18. Climb right and up through a wall with a crack, then straight up. Reach a ledge and set up a station on the right side. 25 m VIA1

R18–R19. Climb up from the left edge of the ledge through a "гнилой угол" (rotten corner) to its end. Climb up and left through an overhanging пробка (plug) to a ledge under the next overhang with a crack. Climb up through it to a flattening. Continue climbing up to a small ledge. 5 m VIA2, 20 m A3+, 5 m A2, 10 m V

R19–R20. Climb right and up through a crack (10 m), then left and up through a system of rocks. Traverse into a large "Белый угол" (White corner). Climb up the right wall to a small ledge. 10 m VIA1, 10 m VIA2, 10 m V

R20–R21. Climb right to a crack and up through it. Move along the right outer edge of the corner. Then return to the right wall of the large corner. Climb up to a ledge. 5 m V, 20 m VIA2

R21–R22. Traverse left to the ночевка (overnight stay) spot. 15 m III

R22–R23. Climb up non-monolithic, snow-covered rocks. 45 m V

R23–R24. Climb up, slightly right, towards an internal corner. Climb up a разрушенный угол (destroyed corner) — chimney to a ledge. 45 m V

R24–R25. Climb right to a gentle slab. Bypass an overhang on the left through a косая щель (oblique crack) and reach a ledge. From the ledge, climb left and use artificial aids (IT) left of the разрушенный угол (destroyed corner) to reach more positive terrain. 30 m VIA2

R25–R26. Climb right into a corner. Climb up and right through the corner, then through a разрушенная стенка (destroyed wall) to the beginning of a huge серпообразный внутренний угол (sickle-shaped internal corner). 5 m V, 25 m VI A2, 5 m IV

R26–R27. Climb up the internal corner, overcome a large overhang, and reach a flattening. 5 m VI A2, 10 m V, 15 m A2, 5 m V

R27–R28. Climb left through a crack into a long, косой внутренний угол (oblique internal corner). Climb up and right through the corner, bypassing overhangs. At the end of the corner, climb up through a нависающая щель (overhanging crack) to a ledge. There's a площадка (platform) for a tent. 5 m V, 40 m VI A2, 5 m I

R28–R29. Climb up несложные скалы (simple rocks) to a ridge. Climb along the простой гребень (simple ridge) for 50 m to a взлет (ascent). Overcome the взлет on the right through rocks. Continue along the простой гребень (simple ridge) to a провал (saddle). Climb up a крутой фирновый склон (steep firn slope) to a flattening and then to the summit. 10 m III, 50 m I, 10 m III, 50 m II, 20 m II, 30 m I

Itinerary

Legend:

Tactical Actions of the Team

When preparing for the ascent, we used a description compiled by a team from Moscow (Ivanov), who made the second passage of the route in 2011, as well as the report of the первопроходцы (first ascensionists).

The approach from the base camp to the wall took the whole day. In the evening, a snowfall began, continuing throughout the night. We had to wait out the bad weather.

We planned to complete the route in 4 days, considering the challenging weather conditions, and took food and gas for 8 days.

On the first day, we started at 10:00, before the rocks, covered in ice crust, became too difficult to pass. By 19:00, we reached a ledge under the overhangs and set up an overnight stay.

On the second day, after completing 6 difficult веревки (ropes), we reached the first balcony — a convenient ledge. On the third day, after another 6 веревки (ropes), we set up a tent on the second balcony. We spent the last 2 hours working in a камера (probably referring to a particularly challenging or exposed section). By night, a hurricane began. Until 1 am, we held the tent with our backs, fully dressed (fearing destruction). Then the wind slowly subsided, but the snowfall continued throughout the next day, forcing us to wait for better weather.

PHOTO 1 STATION R1.1

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PHOTO 3 IN TROUSERS ON R18–R19

ХАМАД ЯАТКА R19–R20 ■ ■