FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF BSSR № 4.2.33, 579, 3, 112.87
2012.37
Report
on the ascent to Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-West ridge. Cat. diff. - 4B. Leader - Alexander Mashkanov. Home address: 220134, Minsk, Yakubovsky st., 22, building 3, apt. 17.
Team coach - Stanislav Shabunya.
Home address: 220037, Minsk, 2nd Bagration lane, 19, apt. 48.
- base camp - five approaches - five returns
Brief description of the approach
From the base camp, move to the Karasu gorge and then up along the orographically right bank of the river to a small waterfall falling from the left-bank slope of the Eastern ridge of peak 4541 (3 hours). There is a convenient place for an overnight stay on a green glade.
At this place, turn left along the stream originating from the cirque formed by Maly Iskander and Severny Iskander peaks.
Ascent to the cirque and along the talus moraine of the glacier along the slopes of the North-West ridge of Maly Iskander peak to the foot of the "Bastion with a pipe" gendarme.
The exit to the ridge is made to the left of this gendarme. From the turn, it takes 3-4 hours.
There are convenient places for overnight stays on the talus moraines of the glacier.
View of the North-West ridge of Maly Iskander peak. Photo from the sub-peak.
Section of the approach before exiting to the North-West ridge.
Table of main characteristics of route sections
| Date | Sect. № | Length, m | Steepness, deg. | Relief characteristics | Difficulty | Relief state | Weather conditions | Hooks used, rock/ITO | Bolts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20.07 | 0–1 | 70 | 20 | chimney | IV–V | monolith | good | 4 | – |
| 1–2 | 75 | 40 | cracks, slabs | Y | monolith | good | 6 | 1 | |
| 2–3 | 70 | 60 | inner corner, cracks | Y | monolith | good | 8 | 4 | |
| 3–4 | 75 | 40 | slabs, inner corner, cracks | Y⁺ | monolith | good | 6/1 | 3/1 | |
| 4–5 | 85 | 10 | niche, overhang | VI⁻ | monolith | good | 3/2 | 2/2 | |
| 5–6 | 70 | 100 | slabs, inner corner, cracks | Y | monolith | good | 11 | 1 | |
| 6–7 | 70 | 40 | slab | Y | monolith | good | 4 | 3 | |
| 7–8 | 75 | 15 | chimney | Y⁺ | monolith | good | 6/2 | – | |
| 8–9 | 70 | 90 | inner corner, slabs with cracks | Y | monolith | good | 7/5 | 2 | |
| 9–10 | 30 | 40 | oblique ledge | III | fractured | good | 3 | – | |
| 21.07 | 10–11 | 75 | 70 | cracks, spalls | Y⁺ | monolith | good | 8 | 2 |
| 11–12 | 60 | 30 | inclined inner corner, spalls | Y | monolith | good | 4 | 4 | |
| 12–13 | 60 | 20 | Y⁻ slabs | Y⁻ | monolith | good | 2 | 1 | |
| 13–14 | 75 | 40 | Y "red" chimney | Y | monolith | good | 8 | 1 | |
| 14–15 | 75 | 20 | outer corner | Y⁺ | monolith | good | 2/1 | 2 | |
| 15–16 | 80 | 10 | cornice | Y⁺ | monolith | good | 4 | 0/1 | |
| 16–17 | 30+45 | 100 | snowy ledge, fractured rocks | III | snow-covered, fractured | good | – | – | |
| 17–18 | 50 | 40 | rocky-ice slope | IV | ice, rocky outcrops | good | 2 | – | |
| 18–19 | 45 | 40 | snowy slope | monolith | good | 1 | – | ||
| 19–20 | 65 | 30 | wall | IV | fractured | good | 2 | – | |
| 20–22 | 50 | 40 | inclined slabs, ridge | III | monolith | good | – | 2 | |
| 21–22 | 50 | 20 | ridge | IV | monolith | good | – | – | |
| 22–23 | 60 | 40 | ridge | IV | monolith | good | 2 | 1 |
Descent from the summit along the ascent route along the ridge to the point of exit to the ridge at sect. 20–21. Further descent towards Karasu gorge.
-10°C
section 1–2
sections 1–3
-12°C
sections 12–16
Practical explanations for the table of main route sections
R0–R1. The start of the route is to the right, 40 m from the rib between the South-East and North-East walls, leading to a talus ledge via a chimney-like crack 20 m. Further, the route is visible in its lower part - a large, wide inner corner with cracks like spalls, 3 to 10 cm wide.
Throughout the entire route, there are many cracks for organizing hook belays (mainly thick universal, channels, and boxes), many cracks and crevices for using mid-size and larger chocks.
R1–R2. Move along the right part of the "bottom" of the inner corner, then the inner corner bifurcates - ascend via the right inner corner. 100 m after the talus ledge, there is a convenient place for organizing belays (for 2-3 people).
R3–R4. The inner corner with cracks ends in a niche with an overhang, from under which there is an exit (ITO) to the left inner corner.
R5–R10. Ascent along the increasingly widening inner corner, using rock hooks, boxes, wedges, and chocks in the cracks.
R9–R10. Inclined ledge. Caution! Loose rocks! There can be a convenient overnight stay. There is a platform on the right side of the ridge shoulder. There may be no snow or ice at the overnight stay in case of stable hot weather.
R10–R16. There are two possible ascent options to the shoulder ending the rib between the South-East and North-East walls: a) along the South-East wall, left-upwards along the continuing system of cracks and smooth slabs; b) from the overnight stay straight up along steep blocks, exiting to the rib in the upper part, 4-5 ropes.
The group chose the first option.
R12–R13. The transition to the left was made with a 20 m "pendulum" swing along smooth slabs.
R13–R16. Move along smooth slabs with cracks and a small "red" chimney-couloir under an overhang (to the left, a large wet chimney descends), exit from under the overhang 10 m using ladders to a large talus ledge with a snow patch.
R16–R21. Exit to the ridge to the right of the summit tower: a) along the slopes of the summit tower, without descending to the right funnel-shaped snow patch; b) in case of good snow conditions, along the left part of the snow patch, exiting to the gap in the ridge branching off from Maly Iskander peak towards the base camp.
R21–R23. Ascent to the summit along the ridge to the right. Backpacks can be left behind.
Descent along the ridge via the ascent route to the point of exit to the ridge during ascent. Further, 3 rope descents towards Karasu gorge and 1 sport descent along "B. brows" talus. From here, descent to Karasu river and down along the river to the base camp takes 3-4 hours.