ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing region — Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.
  3. Peak, its height, route — Pik Maly Iskander, 4520 m, via the edge of the southeast wall.
  4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 900 m.
    • length — 1005 m.
    • sections of 3rd difficulty category — 220 m.
    • sections of 4th difficulty category — 160 m.
    • sections of 5th difficulty category — 605 m.
    • sections of 6th difficulty category — 20 m.
    • average steepness of the route — 66°.
    • average steepness of the wall section — 72°.
  6. Pitons and/or chocks used:
    • rock pitons — 106/8
    • chocks — 36/13
  7. Number of climbing hours — 17.5, days — 2.
  8. Number of bivouacs — one bivouac at the end of the 9th rope, tent setup possible.
  9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
    • I. Shibanov Alexander Viktorovich — CMS.
    • II. Yanchenkov Viktor Fedorovich — CMS.
  10. Team coach — Kavunenko V.D. — MCMS.
  11. Date of departure to the route and return to the camp — 20.07–22.07 1983. img-0.jpeg

ASCENT DOCUMENT: First Ascent

  1. Climbing category: technical.
  2. Climbing region: Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak: Maly Iskander (4640 m) via the Northeast wall.
  4. Expected difficulty category: 5B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 780 m.
    • length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 435 m.
    • length of sections with 6th difficulty category — 30 m.
    • total route length — 930 m.
    • average steepness of the main part — 73°.
  6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | |:----:|:------:|:-------:| | 35/5 | 1/1 | 65 |
  7. Number of climbing hours — 16.
  8. Number of bivouacs — one on the summit.
  9. Team composition:
    • Kavunenko V.D. MS — leader.
    • Bashkirov V.L. MS — participant.
  10. Team coach: Kavunenko V.D. MS.
  11. Departure to the route — August 7, 1984. Return to the camp — August 8, 1984, 12:00.
  12. Alpinist camp “Ak-Su”. img-1.jpeg

classified route of 5B difficulty category Kavunenko—Bashkirov route.

UIAA SYMBOL SCHEME

Section #Rock PitonsBolt PitonsChocksDifficulty CategoryLength, mSteepness, °
R164654085
R151454080
R141353570
R133446060
R121253060
R115558070
R101242550
R91/44/16590
R82354075
R71454075
R63654575
R532862585
R43252080
R3265*2080
R22452580
R1352070

TOTAL

Rock PitonsBolt PitonsChocks
Total35565
Difficulty CategoryLength, mSteepness, °
320045
43050
215030

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