1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Peak 3900 (Domashnyaya).
4. Estimated difficulty — 5A rock climbing.
5. Height difference: total — 650 m; wall section — 440 m. Length of wall section — 500 m. Average steepness of wall section — 70°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 300 m; 4th category difficulty — 50 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 12/8; bolt — 0/3; ice — 0/0; protection — 84/15.
7. Climbing hours — 15 hours; days — 1.
8. Team leader: Denisenko P.N. CMS. Redrov V.V. 1st sports category
9. Team coach: Denisenko P.N.
10. Date of departure on the route — August 5, 1987, return — August 5, 1987.
11. Organization: Kirovograd VDFSO trade unions.

Route description by sections

R0–R1 Along the wall to the left of the chimney to the ledge. Smoothed rock. Possible rockfall in the chimney.

R1–R2 Right along the ledge and then up the vertical wall to the diagonal crack — difficult climbing.

R2–R4 Diagonal crack is climbed using 10 bolt pitons and large protection as belay points. Ladder usage is necessary. The crack is inclined and opens downwards from the crack. Has throw-offs. The lower part of the crack overhangs, water drips. On the ledge in the green bush is a "cairn".

R4–R5 Ledges with smoothed holds: along the right part of the wall.

R5–R6 Left along the steep couloir to transition to the left part of the chimney.

R6–R7 Large black rocks. Very difficult climbing, rocks with smoothed holds. Deviation under the right wall of the chimney.

R7–R8 Chimney with a plug, climbing in opposition.

R8–R9 Along the slabs to the left, under the black wall, to the left are yellow rocks with a bypass of cornices. Exit under the chimney.

R10–R12 Chimney with a plug. In the lower part, climbing in opposition. The upper part widens and merges with the 4B category difficulty route.

Further along the scree-covered ledges to the right — up to the exit to the summit.

General characteristics of the route

The route is located on the Western wall and is a pronounced diagonal crack in the lower part, with a width ranging from several centimeters to 1 m. After three to four ropes, after a characteristic cornice "Nos", the crack turns into a wide chimney. The rock structure in the upper and middle parts is smoothed and in some places presents "sheep's foreheads" combined with the route's great steepness, which significantly complicates the passage and requires good rock climbing skills from the leader. The lower part of the crack is composed of fragile yellow rocks. In this part, the crack overhangs and requires the use of bolt pitons as belay points. Since the crack opens, the following can be used as protection in this part:

• "friends",
• self-wedging and large chocks. In the upper and middle parts of the route, the following work well as protection:
• "shweller",
• medium and large chocks. Ladders are necessary in the lower part of the route. Route features:
• the route is dry,
• water is encountered in the lower part of the crack,
• the sun illuminates the route at 1:00–2:00 PM,
• there are loose rocks on the route. It is recommended to climb in a team of two or four with preliminary processing of four ropes (with an exit under the "Nos" cornice). When straightening the belay, the rope often passes through cornices.