Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Ascent route: SAGU, 4650 m, via the "per'ya" of the North ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 720 m, average steepness 68° (up to the ridge)
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating I.T.O.:
   • rock 108

1. The ascent category is technical.
2. The ascent area, ridge - Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. The summit, its height, ascent route - peak SAGU (4650 m), first ascent via the left part of the NW wall and N ridge.
4. The proposed difficulty category is 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 970 m, wall part - 730 m, length - 1446 m, wall part - 796 m, sections of 5-6 difficulty category - 606 m, average steepness of the wall part - 65°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: for belaying - 68, for ITO - 8
   • placed protection: for belaying - 154
7. Number of climbing hours - 31.5 (including 10 hours of processing)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technical
2. Ascent area (according to KTMGV) - northern spur of the Alay ridge (5.1)
3. Peak, its height and ascent route - peak Sauk-Jaylyau Eastern, 4960 m, via the northern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1460 m from the assault camp, 1270 m from the saddle average steepness: 65°, section lengths: 1 - 0 m; 2 - 60 m; 3 - 40 m; 3-4 - 740 m; 4 - 580 m; 5 - 140 m; 5 - 540 m; 5-6 - 340 m; 6 - 170 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying - 128 (rock), 0 (ice), 10 (bolts, on descent); for creating I.T.O. - 5
7. Number of travel hours - 40 hours

Ascent Passport

I. Category of First Ascent 2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Sauk-Jaylau gorge 3. Sauk-Jaylau Main (5120 m) via North face 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1220 m route length — 1312 m length of sections with 5–6 categories — 900 m average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Region — Pamir-Alay
3. Sauk-Jaylau (Main) via the northern wall bastion
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference – 1250 m, length – 1495 m, wall section – 975 m, average steepness of the wall section – 78°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 935 m (3960–4930), including 6 category of difficulty – 405 m (4010–4460)
6. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Alayskiy ridge (northern spur)
3. Peak: Sauk Jaylyau Western 1st tower via the northern edge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 710 m, average steepness 53°, route length details see appendix
6. Pitons used for belays to create I.T.O. rock pitons 31 — ice screws 1 — bolt pitons —
7. Total climbing hours 12

Report on the First Ascent

Teams from the Republic of Buryatia to p. Sauk-Djaylau 4866 m via the Bastions of the Northern Ridge. July 19, 2015. Approximately 5B–6A category of difficulty. Ulan-Ude, 2015.

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Archekanysh (Surmetash) gorge. Section number according to the classification table 5.1.1
2. Peak: Sauk-Djaylau 4866 m (peak coordinates: 39°46′0.47″ N 71°56′4.48″ E, height and coordinates determined by GPS), via the Bastions of the Northern Ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B–6A, first ascent, second ascent overall.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 916 m (3950 m–4866 m). Route length: 1100 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Sauk-Dzhaylau (C) 5225 m via North face
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1505 m
   • route length — 1925 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1415 m
   • average steepness — 67.5

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Sauk-Djaylyau Central via the ice couloir on the north wall, category 6A, by a team from Tomsk region and St. Petersburg from September 6, 2019 to September 8, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

9.I. Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical Ascent region (№ according to KTMTTV) — northern spur of the Alay Ridge (5.1) Peak, its height, and ascent route — South-Eastern Sauk-Djaylyau, 4730 m, from the north Expected category of difficulty — 5B Route characteristics:

• height difference: from the assault camp — 1210 m, from the saddle — 610 m
• average steepness — 63°
• purely rock section — 67%
• length of sections I — забито крючьев для страховки: for creation and T.O.