Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing region — Alay Ridge
- Peak, its height, route — Sauk-Dzhaylau (C) 5225 m via North face
- Difficulty category — 5B
- Route characteristics:
- height difference — 1505 m
- route length — 1925 m
- length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1415 m
- average steepness — 67.5
- Pitons driven: rock, ice, chocks — 207/12, 79/3, 94/17
- Number of climbing hours — 63 hours
- Number of nights and their characteristics: 4 nights (1st – in a bergschrund in a tent, 2nd – on a ledge in a tent, 3rd – on a ledge sitting, 4th – on a ledge sitting).
- Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:
- Gayzulin Gayzizula Samigulovich — Candidate Master of Sports, leader
- Gromov Alexey Valentinovich — Candidate Master of Sports, deputy leader
- Nogovitsin Petr Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports, participant
- Plokhotny Vladimir Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports, participant
- Team coach — Gromov Leonid Valentinovich — Master of Sports of the USSR
- Date of departure and return: from August 14 to August 19, 1986
- Control and Sports Point (KSP) of the Pamir-Alay region.
Map of the Region
- Sauk Western I tower
- Sauk Western II tower
- Sauk Central 5225 m
- Sauk Main 5120 m
- Sauk White (snow) 4800 m
- Sauk South-Eastern 4730 m
- Sauk Eastern 4960 m
- Sauk Dvuzubka
Profile from the eastern side
Sauk-Dzhaylau Central peak
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to Sauk-Dzhaylau via the left part of the Eastern wall – first ascent, approximately 5–6 difficulty category.
| Date | Section designation | Average steepness, degrees | Section length | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty category | Condition | Rock pitons | Chocks | Bolts | Ice pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 |
| 14.08.86 | R0–R1 | 55 | 240 | Ice slope | 4–5 | Porous ice | — | — | — | 20 |
| R1–R2 | 60 | 120 | Ice slope | 5 | — | — | — | — | 7 | |
| R2–R3 | 45 | 120 | Ice slope | 4 | Firm | — | — | — | 9 | |
| R3–R4 | 90 | 15 | Ice wall | 6 | ice | — | — | — | 7 | |
| R4–R5 | 45 | 120 | Ice slope | 4 | covered | — | — | — | 9 | |
| R5–R6 | 55 | 120 | Ice slope | 5 | with a layer | — | — | — | 9 | |
| 15.08.86 | R6–R7 | 90 | 20 | Ice wall | 6 | of snow | — | — | — | 9 |
| R7–R8 | 65 | 280 | Ice slope | 5 | 5–7 cm | — | — | — | — | |
| R8–R9 | 80 | 50 | Wall | 6 | Smooth rock | — | — | — | — | |
| R9–R10 | 90 | 60 | Wall | 6 | Smooth rocks | 7 | 5 | — | — | |
| R10–R11 | 80–90 | 100 | Wall with two cornices | 6 | — | 11 | 14 | — | — | |
| R11–R12 | 90–105 | 50 | Chimney with overhangs | 6 | Smooth rocks | 10 | 4 | — | — | |
| R12–R13 | 85 | 20 | Wall | 6 | Smooth rocks | 4 | 3 | — | — | |
| 16.08.86 | R13–R14 | 80 | 25 | Inner corner with ice | 6 | Congealed ice | 4 | 4 | — | — |
| R14–R15 | 80–90 | 60 | Wall | 5–6 | Smooth rocks | 13 | 10 | — | — | |
| 17.08.86 | R15–R16 | 75–85 | 110 | Inner corner | 5–6 | Smooth rocks | 17 | 20 | — | — |
| 18.08.86 | R16–R17 | — | 10 | Inclined ledge and overhang | 5 | — | — | 2 | — | — |
| R17–R18 | 90 | 60 | Wall | 6 | Strong slab-like rocks | 9 | 11 | — | — | |
| R18–R19 | 100 | 5 | Traverse under cornices to the right | 6 | Crumbly rocks | — | — | — | 2 | |
| R19–R20 | 70–80 | 60 | Crumbly wall | 5–6 | — | 17 | 15 | — | — | |
| R20–R21 | — | 15 | Inclined ledge | 5 | — | — | — | 2 | 3 | |
| R21–R22 | 70–85 | 130 | Wall, steep slabs | 5 | — | — | — | 11 | 40 | |
| R22–R23 | 60 | 30 | Pre-summit ridge | 3 | — | — | — | 3 | 7 | |
| R24 | — | — | Summit | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Team captain G.S. Gayzulin