North face of Bolshoy Igizak (via the cleft)

Category 3B difficulty The route along the wall passes through a clearly visible cleft that crosses the wall diagonally towards the saddle. Section 1. The path initially passes through easy rocks upwards, emerging onto an inclined ledge that crosses the wall upwards from right to left. Section 2. Along the ledge, we move left and upwards to the start of a slab (weakly pronounced) that ascends the wall towards the summit. The movement is simultaneous. The section is 15 m long, and the ledge is 0.5–1 m wide. Section 3. We ascend via a not clearly visible groove approximately 5–6 m upwards to narrow inclined shelves that traverse the wall horizontally. We traverse to the right along the shelves (6–7 m) and reach the base of the cleft that ascends the wall towards the saddle. Steepness is 70–80°. Protection is via pitons. Rocks are of medium difficulty. Section 4. Upwards through the cleft (approximately 40 m) to where it ends at a wall at the base of a large, sharp rock outcropping. Here, there is a ledge suitable for organizing protection. The overall steepness of this section is 75°. When moving up the cleft, three main sheer walls, each 2–3 m high, are overcome. Handholds are available.

Ascent Passport

Climb Category: Rock (Combined) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bolshoy Igizak via N wall 4100 m (via cleft) Estimated Difficulty Category: 4A (35) Route Characteristics:

• Height difference: 350 m
• Average steepness: 50°
• Length of sections:
  • I: 200 m
  • II: none

The North Face of Bolshoy Igizak — Cat. 4A

Section R1

Movement along a snow-ice couloir (steepness up to 35° at the end) on the right side (in the direction of travel) straight up to the beginning of the sheer walls of Igizak. At this point, there is the last section where one can transition from snow to rocks, overcoming a 2-meter wall and a small bergschrund (in the spring, the wall may be covered with snow). We emerge onto a small platform at the base of a low (3 m) internal corner with an overhang. The length of the section from the foot is 100 m, movement is simultaneous.

Section R2

The corner is traversed using artificial support points (one ice screw and one rock piton) with an exit onto not very steep (45°) rocks. The rocks are weathered granite, smoothed, and are climbed on friction straight up with an exit onto a small platform and a ledge at the foot of sheer rocks. The route length is 60 m. Climbing is not difficult. 2-3 pitons (one ice screw).

Section R3

Along an inclined ledge 3-4 m long, we traverse to the right towards a wall (2 m) and, having passed it, emerge onto an inclined small platform. Descending from it 3-4 m, we come out onto a horizontal wide ledge. The route length is 20 m. The rocks are simple, one piton.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Большой Игизак via the left edge of the north-eastern wall along the route 4А cat. diff. (first ascent). August 23, 1979 Yu. Krasnoukhov, V. Gusev, 15. Kudrisov. 10 ✓, 34 m, 3.8 h. 240 m, 1951, 201.

Photo 2. Route profile.

• VISIBLE PART OF THE ROUTE

I. Class of ascent — rock 2. Re­gion of as­cent — Pami­ro-Alai, southern bran­ches of the Gis­sar ridge, Igi­zak valley 3. Ver­tex Big Igi­zak, 4100 m, via the left edge of the NE wall 4. As­sumed dif­fi­cul­ty cat­egory — 45635 г 505, №14(3–81) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 240 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections — total — 405 m, 2nd difficulty grade — 70 m, 3rd difficulty grade — 112 m, 4th difficulty grade — 195 m, 5th difficulty grade — 20 m 6. Rock hooks ham­mered in to cre­ate i.t.o. 7. Num­ber of tra­vel hours — 8 hours

23.558

Description of the Traverse

Mt. Igizak (Category I difficulty) From the overnight stay on the green meadow located below Bivouachnaya Mt. Byravnaya, one needs to move upwards along the Igizak River, initially through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. After 1.5–2 hours, one can reach the Naizakhba Pass, situated between the peaks of Igizak and Maly Igizak. The ascent to the summit of Mt. Igizak follows the western ridge, which consists of easy rocks. The movement is simultaneous. The ascent from Naizakhba Pass to Mt. Igizak takes 40–50 minutes. The summit elevation is approximately 3700 m. The eastern ridge features alternating sections of small snowfields, easy rocks, and small scree. The descent follows the right side of the ridge (three gendarmes remain on the left) down to Maly Igizak Pass, with simultaneous movement throughout. From Maly Igizak Pass, the descent to the overnight stay via snowfields presents no difficulties. For a small group, the descent from Mt. Igizak to Maly Igizak Pass takes 25–30 minutes, and from Maly Igizak Pass to the overnight stay, it takes 40–50 minutes. Compiled by: Mashkov V. S.

12. 1st peak of the Crown of Siam from the southwest, route 26 c/d, fig. 5.

The ascent can be made either from the base camp or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the White Pyramid's Eastern glacier. From the Four Pass, descend along a gentle snowfield to the right, under the cliffs of the western slopes of the southern ridge of the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam. Traverse the snowfield to reach broad ledges covered with fine scree and running parallel to the rocky ridge. Move along these ledges until they intersect with a shallow, snow-filled couloir. The latter is 1.5–2 m wide. Further movement:

• up to the right along the couloir, where after 12 m, convenient ledges begin, leading up to the ridge. This section is well-defined, as it is bounded on the left by difficult rocks.
• before reaching the ridge, turn left under a rock wall 10–12 m high, with outcrops of black rocks in its upper part.
• under this wall, pass to a gap in the ridge. From the gap, ascend rocks with good holds to a small platform at the level of the upper edge of the wall. Belay is piton. Above the wall, a narrow ledge goes left, allowing traverse of the rocks above the wall to a convenient exit up to a broad, gentle platform. Ascend a short, wide couloir leading to the pre-summit ridge, up to the right onto the ridge. Along the ridge to the summit is 200–250 m. In some sections of the ridge, alternating belays are required. Descent from the summit is by the ascent route. The ascent takes 7 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — I tower of the Siama Crown, 3950 m, via the bastion from the east. 4. Difficulty category (assumed) — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a. height difference of the wall section — 260 m; b. total height difference — 400 m; c. average steepness of the wall section — 60°; d. length of sections:

13. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the Tsirk of Belaya Piramida, 16 km/tr. route, fig. 5

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the East glacier of Belaya Piramida under the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, approach the 4th peak. When bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, one should be cautious, as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. The ascent to the peak goes via a snowy couloir leading to the ridge to the right of the peak. Then move along the ridge for 50–60 m until reaching slabs inclined to the southeast towards the Siam Valley. The slabs are climbed on the right with running belay. Then, via easy rocks, staying to the right of the ridge, reach the peak. The descent from the peak is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 5 hours. Fig. 5

Fig. 5

14. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the northeast, route 26 cat., fig. 5

The path from the base camp to the upper part of the couloir under Nishon pass is described in route 11. In the upper part, traverse left into a couloir that widens into the slopes. Reach the rocks, which are heavily destroyed shelves with large, standalone rock blocks. The slope, with a steepness of up to 40° in the upper part, leads under the walls of the main peak. To the right of it, separated by a sharp drop in the ridge, the second peak is visible. Before reaching the ridge, overcome a monolithic wall with a cleft, which is bypassed on the right between rocks, and then up through the cleft to the left. Insurance through ledges. Ascend to the ridge, the southeastern side of which consists of solid slabs. Follow the slabs to reach steep rock blocks forming the highest point of the 4th peak of the Crown of Siam. The ascent to the peak from the couloir takes 2 hours. The descent from the peak is along the ridge leading to the saddle between the 4th and 3rd peaks of the Crown of Siam, on its left side, emerging onto an extensive slab inclined towards the Siam Valley. Traverse it diagonally to reach an inclined inner corner. Insurance is alternating, with pitons. Organizing a sport descent is possible. After the inner corner, a second slab leads to the saddle between the peaks. Follow rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning into convenient shelves, to descend onto a snow patch. Below the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, reach Four pass. Return to the base camp via the pass.