Za­min-Ka­ror (Yag­nob­skaya Wa­ll)

West­ern Shoul­der

3910 m ASCENT VIA C — 3 WALL THROUGH K/T CAVE EXPEDITION TEAM: 1. I. Irushevsky V. G. I cat. "Khosilot" (leader) 2. Ka­sinsky V. V. II cat. "Khosilot" 3. Leonov K. II cat. "Khosilot" 4. So­lo­vyov M. A. II cat. "Khosilot" Tajik SSR, Dushanbe

§ 4 Assault Group Composition

After the coaches' council, the following groups were formed:

Assault Group

1. Rusanov Viktor Nikolayevich — leader of the ascent, Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism, Candidate Master of Sports in rock climbing
2. Sivtsov Boris Grigoryevich — participant of the ascent, Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism, 1st sports category in rock climbing
3. Sapoga Yevgeny Alexandrovich — participant of the ascent, Candidate Master of Sports in alpinism, Master of Sports of the USSR in rock climbing
4. Shatilov Vadim Mikhailovich — participant of the ascent, Master of Sports in alpinism, 1st sports category in rock climbing

Observation and Communication Group

1. Zhelobotkin Pyotr Ivanovich
2. Alekseenko Alexey Andreyevich

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar ridge, Zamin-Karor massif
3. Zamin-Karor peak (I-st Western) via Western wall through western shoulder
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1300 m, sections of 5B category of difficulty 250 m, average steepness of the route 75°
6. Driven pitons: rock 8 + 4* закладок 42 bolt pitons –

Passport

of the ascent route to the western shoulder of Zamin-Karor (category III) via the center of the western wall.

1. Location area of the peak: 150 km southeast of the Fann Mountains
2. Height of the peak: 3700 m
3. Height difference of the route: 500 m
4. Total length of the route: 1200 m
5. Total length of challenging sections of the route:
   • 350–380 m
6. Average steepness of the route: 77.5°

YAGNOBSKAYA STENA to the Western peak. Description of the ascent via the northern wall through the western shoulder with exit to the Western peak I. Compiled by: (V. Tkachev) Dushanbe — 1969

I. History of the region's exploration

If you travel to Dushanbe from Leninabad via the road passing through the Anzob pass, you will see a light gray, sharp peak visible from behind the surrounding mountains immediately beyond the Anzob village, up the Yaghnob river. This is the highest point of the Yagnobskaya Stena, its main peak. The Yagnobskaya Stena is located in the spurs of the Great Caucasus range and the Hissar range, in a local mountain system that includes eight peaks (diagram #1). In August 1967, while making an ascent to one of the peaks in memory of the deceased mountaineer Anvar Shukurov, climbers from the DSO "Khosilot" turned their attention to the massive wall array located opposite (6000 m).

79. South-West Peak of Zamin Karor (Yaghnob Wall) via South-West Ridge, 4A category of complexity, fig. 41

From the base camp, traverse grassy and talus slopes under the north-west wall of the West Shoulder to reach the start of the route. Cross a stream bed and ascend a grassy ridge-cone that abuts the wall. The approach takes about an hour. The route begins to the left of a black, washed-out chimney. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with an average steepness of up to 70°, and a length of 250 m. The first wall leads to a large, gently sloping ledge with talus. Cross the ledge and ascend the second wall, which has more challenging sections than the first wall, to reach a second large ledge. From the ledge, a distinctive split is visible in the right base of the triangular "mirror" slab. Ascend 40 m up a not-so-obvious buttress to a noticeable ledge below. From the ledge, it's 35 m to the split. This section is challenging. Traverse 5 m under the split to the left onto a narrow ledge. Ascent to the split:

• Via the inner angle and chimney formed by the split and the main wall slab on the left. Features:
• The rocks are smoothed.
• The height of the split is 12 m.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. II. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range. III. Peak Zamin-Karor S.W. (3009 m), via the right part of the 3rd wall. IV. Estimated difficulty category 5A, first ascent. V. Height difference — 760 m. Of which: wall — 550 m. Distance — 1140 m, of which: wall — 640 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 67°. VI. Pitons driven:

• rock — 30,
• chocks — 50 (3).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — Rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Ascent route — First ascent via the shortest path on the Western wall D-3 of Zamin Karor peak — 3709 m. 4. Ascent characteristics height difference — 1150 m. (total height difference for the entire route is 1400 m, including the lower rocky belt) average steepness — 85° length of complex sections — 1060 m. 5. Pitons used: rock — 277 ice — none

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing Category
   • Rock Climbing
2. Climbing Region
   • Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge
3. Climbing Route
   • Southwest peak of Zamin-Karor 3709 m
4. Difficulty Category
   • 5B
5. Ascent Characteristics

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — Rock climbing II. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range III. Ascent route — Zamin Karor peak, 3709 m, R0–R3 summit via the center of the West wall IV. Ascent characteristics elevation gain — 1150 m (total route elevation gain), steepness — 80° length of difficult sections — 940 m, including the lower rock belt — 1400 m) V. Pitons used: rock — 204, ice — none, bolted — 4