CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR 1988 ROCK CLIMBING CLASS 1st place.

Report

On the ascent to the summit 4230 m (Asan) via the center of the Northwest wall Team of the Alpine Club of the 12th Sports Club of the SAVO Team leader: Ovcharenko S.V. Senior coach: Ilyinsky E.T., Honored Coach of the USSR

PASSPORT

1. ROCK CLASS
2. NORTHERN spurs of TURKESTAN range, KARA-SU gorge
3. ASAN peak 4230 m via NORTH-WEST face
4. 6B cat. diff.
5. ELEVATION: 840 m, LENGTH: 965 m LENGTH OF 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 695 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF THE ROUTE — 69° (3390–4230), including 6 cat. diff. — 81° (3560–3920)
6. PITOONS HAMMERED: | rock | bolt | chocks | | :---: | :--: | :---: |

1. Rock climbing.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Peak Asan via NW wall, CTMGW 5.4.3, 4230 m
4. 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 830 m, including the wall — 780 m Length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 450 m, including: 6 category of difficulty — 185 m. Average steepness — 66°, including: wall — 78°.
6. Pitons used: Rock Drill-in Nuts Ice 60/7 5/24 90/5 0/0
7. Team's travel hours: 42 hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT. 6A

1. ASCENT CLASS. ROCK.
2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE. TURKESTAN.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER: Asan 4230 m, 3rd wall.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6A cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION CHANGE, LENGTH OF SECTIONS OF 5/6th difficulty category, AVERAGE STEEPNESS 72°. Elevation change: 890 m. Total length: 1125 m. Length of sections with 5/6th difficulty: 475 m, steep rock: 445 m. Steepness of the wall section: 82°.
6. NUMBER OF PITOONS: FOR PROTECTION.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
2. Peak Asan, via the left part of the NW wall.
3. Proposed — Category 6B difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 930 m (3300–4230)
6. Route length: 1010 m. Section lengths: Category V difficulty – 105 m, Category VI difficulty – 710 m. Average steepness: main part of the route – 89°, entire route – 74°. Number of pitons left on the route: total – 32; including bolted pitons – 32. Pitons used on the route: bolted stationary – 32, including artificial aids – 19; removable bolted – 0, including artificial aids – 0. Total artificial points of support (AID) used – 150. Team's walking hours: 90.5 hours, 11 days. Team leader: Mohyla Volodymyr Fedorovych — Master of Sports
7. Participants: Lavrinenko Oleksandr Vadymovych — Candidate for Master of Sports; Nikolaev Vadym Valeriyovych — Candidate for Master of Sports; Cheban Viarel Ivanovych — 1st sports category

— 1 — 6А 2-е μ² 4­¹/­² 4­¹/­² Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, 6А cat., Gorbенко route, 1986. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range. Karavshin gorge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent plan — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge
3. Peak Asan (4230 m) via the NW wall center, Gorbенко (Odessa) route, 1986, ninth ascent
4. Cat. — 6А
5. Height difference — 830 m. Length — 1015 m; including 5–6 cat. — 865 m, with 6 cat. — 415 m. Average slope — 78°, 6 cat. — 85°.

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of the NW wall.
4. 6B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 865 m, of which 6 cat. diff. 415 m, 5 cat. diff. — 450 m. Average steepness of the route 78° (sections R0–R26, heights 3400–4230 m) and in them 6 cat. diff. 85° (260 m, 3540–3800 m, 110 m, 3890–4000 m).
6. Pitons driven: | Piton type | Total | Driven | | :--------- | :---- | :----- | | Rock | 129 | 21 |

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of NW wall.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
5. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 865 m, of which 6B category — 415 m. Average slope of the route 78° (3400–4230). Of these, 6B category 85° (3540–3800, 3890–4000).
6. Driven pitons. | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 145 | 24 | 119 |

1. Rock climbing
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), center of NW wall
4. 6B, second ascent
5. Height difference 830 m, length 1015 m, length of 5–6 sections – 865 m, of which 6 – 415 m. Average steepness – 78° (3400–4230 m), of which 6 – 85° (3540–3800 m, 3890–4000 m)
6. Pitons driven: rock 54/35, bolted 46/7+39x, chocks 191/66, x – reuse of previously driven pitons
7. Climbing hours 36 and days 3
8. Overnights: 1 – four in a tent on a ledge, two in hammocks; 2 – four in a tent in a "niche", two in hammocks