Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11
2. Peak name: Kyzylbash, route: via the left part of the NE wall
3. Route category 6A difficulty level according to KMGV 1999 >3×205
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 755 m Route length: 835 m Section lengths: R1 — 228 m, R2 — 217 m Average steepness: — main part of the route — 82°,

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
3. Difficulty category: 6A.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: «Kyzylbash» — 4200 m via the center of the NE face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 84°
   • Length of sections: R1 45 m, R2 450 m, R3 315 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Kyzylbash" - 4200 m NE ridge 4. Expected difficulty category 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 62° length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. 320 m 6. Pitons hammered:

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock climbing
2. Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |

32

Description

Traversing the peak KOPTAU (4100 m) No. 2. (First ascent). Departure from the bivouac, located by the lake, at dawn, at 5 or 5:30 am, but no later. Immediately behind the lake, the ascent of the terminal moraine of the ancient glacier begins (height 40–50 m); keeping to the right side, we ascend a few more gentle and small ascents and exit to the middle talus. To our left will be two slabs. One rises above the other by 1.5–2 m, the slabs are smoothed to 30° steepness. If there is snow on the slabs, they can be passed, if they are without snow, it is better to bypass them on the fairly small talus to the right (downhill). On the talus to the right, we ascend above the gorge, which is exposed to rockfall from the very early morning. Then, keeping to the right side, we head towards the false saddle. The path goes along a fairly steep snowfield (45–50 degrees). To our left remains a long ridge leading to the summit. When we come level with the beginning of the ridge, we need to climb steeply to the left to the foot of the ridge. Its northwest wall is completely sheer, with no snow or loose rocks, and under it is fairly dense deep snow. Until now, in most cases, the snow lies on the slabs, and when traversing in the lower part, it is possible to get caught in an avalanche. The entire path to the foot of the ridge will take one and a half to two hours. Then, keeping at a distance of 30–50 meters from the ridge on the snowfield, we ascend to the imaginary saddle, which is visible as two patches of talus. We need to exit to the left part between the talus and the ridge. This section of the path will take another hour and a half.

ALTUS ZAPADNYI 3090 m via western ridge, cat. dif. ASANOV B.Zh., 2009
prom_alp3@mail.ru 7.11 — Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge

Report

on ascending the western ridge of mt. ALTUS (7.11 — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge), made by the group of alpinada "SAIRAM — 2009" (opened by Mountaineering Federation of South Kazakhstan region)

Annex 1: ASCENT FILE

1. Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su river valley (7.11)
2. Altus Zapadnyi 3090 m via western ridge X)

Ascent Log

1. ASCENT TYPE — ROCK CLIMB
2. ASCENT AREA — UGAM RANGE
3. PEAK "ALTUS" (3200), NORTH RIDGE
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ELEVATION GAIN — 700 m
6. NUMBER OF ROCK ANCHORS — 21
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME — 12 hours
8. TEAM MEMBERS:
   1. RAFIKOV SH.R. — 2nd sports category