32

Description

Traversing the peak KOPTAU (4100 m) No. 2. (First ascent).

Departure from the bivouac, located by the lake, at dawn, at 5 or 5:30 am, but no later. Immediately behind the lake, the ascent of the terminal moraine of the ancient glacier begins (height 40–50 m); keeping to the right side, we ascend a few more gentle and small ascents and exit to the middle talus.

To our left will be two slabs. One rises above the other by 1.5–2 m, the slabs are smoothed to 30° steepness. If there is snow on the slabs, they can be passed, if they are without snow, it is better to bypass them on the fairly small talus to the right (downhill). On the talus to the right, we ascend above the gorge, which is exposed to rockfall from the very early morning.

Then, keeping to the right side, we head towards the false saddle. The path goes along a fairly steep snowfield (45–50 degrees).

To our left remains a long ridge leading to the summit. When we come level with the beginning of the ridge, we need to climb steeply to the left to the foot of the ridge. Its northwest wall is completely sheer, with no snow or loose rocks, and under it is fairly dense deep snow. Until now, in most cases, the snow lies on the slabs, and when traversing in the lower part, it is possible to get caught in an avalanche.

The entire path to the foot of the ridge will take one and a half to two hours.

Then, keeping at a distance of 30–50 meters from the ridge on the snowfield, we ascend to the imaginary saddle, which is visible as two patches of talus. We need to exit to the left part between the talus and the ridge. This section of the path will take another hour and a half.

Traversing in the middle part of the two ascents of the imaginary saddle, we exit onto a plateau, from which the real saddle between the peaks is visible.

MIR II No. 2 (Koptau)

The entire path from the bivouac to the plateau takes from 3 to 4 hours, depending on the condition of the snow. The plateau is crossed in the direction of the beginning of the north ridge. When exiting to the foot of the north ridge, we need to turn left and bypass the first two rocky headlands on the snowfield.

Then, along a small couloir, we ascend directly to the ridge. The eastern side of the ridge is quite steep, covered with snow lying on the slabs, and the western side drops down in a wall.

Further, the path goes along rocks of medium difficulty. Using alternate belay through outcrops (of which there are many), it is possible to overcome most of the ridge. On this path, there are several complex sections, individual slabs standing vertically with sharp edges. They are overcome by "straddling". Therefore, it is better to bypass them on the left (on the eastern side), descending onto the snow.

Before the steep ascent of the ridge to the summit, we bypass the last slab on the snow and do not climb back onto the ridge, but instead climb steeply to the left (to the east), bypassing isolated rocks on the steep snowfield lying on the rocks, and exit into a narrow "chimney" with completely sheer walls.

The entire path along the ridge to the "chimney" takes 4–5 hours of walking. The upper part of the "chimney" is not visible. Keeping to the right side, we begin to ascend on snow with a steepness of 70–75°. In the "chimney", the wind blows strongly from top to bottom, carrying snow, and the snow is very dense. Belay is well-organized through an ice axe.

After passing about 40–50 m, we reach a good platform. We organize belay through a piton. There is enough space for 3 people. With lower belay through a piton, we go another 50 meters and can hammer in a second piton on the rocks to the right. Here, only one person can stand; the others must stand, leaning against the rocks. After another 40–50 meters, the "chimney" becomes less steep, to 40–50°, and belay can be organized through an outcrop. The last rope is passed with alternate belay through an ice axe.

Here, the walls of the "chimney" diverge, and further, there is a gentle snow slope to the summit, two ropes long.

To overcome the "chimney" takes 1.5–2 hours. It is necessary to reach the summit by 3:00–4:00 pm, as the weather usually worsens by evening, especially in spring. We reached the summit at 3:00 pm.

The descent is made in a southerly direction along the gentle and wide Koptau talus, which goes all the way to the saddle between peaks No. 2 and No. 3 (SAUKHİU Komsomol Congress). Then, along a gentle snowfield, we descend to the Kerchely talus, which leads us into a large depression of the melted glacier. Then, keeping between the hills of the ancient moraine, we return to the bivouac, located by the lake.

The entire path of the traverse takes from 10 to 12 hours of work. The route corresponds to category 2B.

First ascent made by: Garshin V.S., Fedotov G.I., Kolokolnikov D.E., Romanov A.F. in May 1962.

Description compiled by Garshin V.S.

Copy is true – M. Zorodzinsky