Western Sayan

Mountain range126,946.50 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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New 2B category route to the top of Ptitsa (2221 m) in Ergaki, ascended via the south-eastern wall, with detailed description and photos.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
  2. Peak — Ptitsa, 2221 m, via "Sickle" of the SE wall
  3. Claimed — 2B category difficulty — first ascent
  4. Route character — rock
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m, total route length — 325 m. length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 15 m, 4th category difficulty — 60 m, 3rd category difficulty — 70 m. average steepness of the entire route 50°
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Climbing passport for Ptitsa peak (2150 m) in Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, complexity category 2B, first ascent in 1998.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
  3. Peak — Ptitsa 2150 m, via the southern slope, rock climbing
  4. Proposed category — 2B first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 130 m, total length — 160 m, average slope: entire route — 50°
  6. Equipment used on the route — 12 stoppers
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Ascent to Ptitsa peak (2150 m) in Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan, via a rock climbing route of II category of difficulty with an altitude difference of 550 m.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak Ptitsa, 2150 m, from the south, permit No. 15 dated 24/11-97, 1.22 2B category
  4. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 550 m; length 900 m; average slope 40°.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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### Description of the 6A Category Route on the North Face of Pik Parus in Ergaki Technical characteristics and passage details for climbers attempting the challenging ascent via the central part of the north face.

Ascent Record

  1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak — Parus via the center of the S wall.
  3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Nature of the route — rock climbing
  5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 500 m. route length — 550 m. length of sections with 6 category of difficulty — 300 m, 5 category of difficulty — 100 m.

Average steepness

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Ascent to the summit Oreshek 1850 m via South wall, category 2B complexity, winter first ascent.

Title Page

Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff. 6.2.

Irkutsk.

Climbing Passport for Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff.

  1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Nizhnee Buibinskoe gorge, section 6.2. 2. Orehek peak (1850) via the South Face. 3. Proposed cat. 2B diff., winter, first ascent. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain — 100 m, length — 400 m, average slope — 10°; wall section — 85°. 6. Pitons hammered: wired — 15 pcs, natural features used for belay — 4 times. 7. Team's total climbing time — 7 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team members: Afanasyev A.E. MS Vlasov V.E. badge Idrisov R.I. badge Lazarenko A.V. badge Nesterov V.N. badge
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Ascent to the summit of Oreshek (1850 m) via the Eastern ridge, category 1B complexity, route description, key sections and recommendations for climbers.

TITLE PAGE Mt. Oreshek 1850 m, via East Ridge, cat. 1B diff. 6.2. Irkutsk. 2014. Climbing passport for Mt. Oreshek 1850 m via East Ridge, cat. 1B.

  1. Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, Nizhnyaya Buiba gorge, section 6.2.
  2. Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge.
  3. Proposed winter route, first ascent, cat. 1B.
  4. Route type: rock climbing.
  5. Elevation gain 100 m, route length 500 m, average slope 10°.
  6. Pitons used: 3 rock and chock pitons, 2 bolt pitons used for descent.
  7. Team's total climbing time: 6 hours.
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Report on the first ascent by the FAiS team of Sverdlovsk region to Peak Orel via the center of the North face, 6B complexity category.

  1. Mt. Orel 1915 m, center of North wall, 2004 (first ascent) diff. cat.
  2. Leader: Davy M.M., Master of Sport
  3. Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river gorge
  4. Section in Classification

22nd Open Russian Championship in Alpinism 2004

Rock Climbing Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk region (FAiS Sverdlovsk region) on Mt. Orel 1915 m via the center of the north wall. 6B category of difficulty.

Addresses:

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Description of a category 3B route to the Molodezhny Peak (2060 m) in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, with a technical ascent on rocky terrain.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical.
  2. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak: 2060 m, Molodezhny peak, left chimney of North wall.
  4. Proposed: category 3B difficulty.
  5. Route type: rock climbing.
  6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 300 m. Route length 480 m. Length of category 4 section 130 m.
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Description of the 1B routes to Uchitel'ey Peak and 1B to Molodezhny Peak from Molodezhny Pass in the Mramorny Lake area.

Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

  • the shortest,
  • not the easiest to ascend,
  • not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

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Description of the alpine route ascent via the north-eastern wall of the Koschurnikov peak with photos of key sections.

The wall with cornices, the key section R2–R3, view from above The section R3–R4, view from above The summit of Кошурникова at 16:10, October 17, 2013

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