Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Ascent description for Khan Tengri Peak via the Southwest Ridge, category 5A, a combined route.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude technical Region — Tian-Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, route № 7.9.8 Peak — Khan-Tengri, via the Southwest ridge Category of difficulty — 5A Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 2800 m. Route length — 5290 m. Length of sections with category difficulty — 1040 m. Average slope:

Ascent of Khan Tengri peak via the South-West slope, category 5B, made by a team from Severodvinsk in 1998.

Ascent Passport Ascent category: high-altitude and technical. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931. Category of difficulty: 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,

First ascent description of Petrovsky Peak via the West Face in Tian Shan, rated 6A, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1991.

п. Petrovsky, via the SW wall – ZheSTKOV V.A. Tien Shan 7.9. Passport Class: High-altitude technical Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge Peak Petrovsky via the SOUTHWEST wall Proposed 6A category of difficulty. First ascent Elevation gain: 1460 m. Route length – 1950 m. Length of sections with 6A and 6B category of difficulty – 260 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 63° (4400–5595) Pitons left on the route (not removed) – 5 Team's climbing hours: 49 hours and days – 5

Account of the first ascent of the northwest wall of Peak Gor'ky (6010 m) in Tian Shan by a team led by Alexander Korobkov in 2004.

Climbing Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1 Gorky (NE), 6010 m, via the left part of NW wall Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 1510 m Route length: 2050 m Section lengths: V category of difficulty – 385 m VI category of difficulty – 335 m

Ascent record of Gorky Peak (6010 m) in Tengri Tagh range via North-West Wall, grade 6B, first ascent.

Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1 Gorkogo (NE), 6010 m, center of NW wall Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent Route type: combined Route height difference: 1510 m Route length: 2030 m Length of sections: V category of complexity — 830 m, VI category of complexity — 400 m Average steepness: main part of the route (4500 m–5900 m) — 60° total route (4500 m–6010 m) — 58°

Description of the first ascent via the right buttress of Pik Ogoryonok in the Terskey Ala-Too Range, made by the Spartak team in 1970.

Results of the ascent made at the 1970 USSR speleology championship Ascent class: Technical-alpinist Ascent region: Tien Shan (Inner Tien Shan) Ascent route: Ascent to the peak of Pik Gorkogo from the Beryoza glacier via the right buttress Ascent characteristics: Height difference 2000 m, average angle of ascent 55°, length of complex sections 1200 m Number of belays: Rock 92, ice 208, piton 8 Total time taken: Ascent 64 hours, descent 18 hours Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 16 tents, mostly on ice, set up in 3-4 hours Team name: Central Sports Council of the Spartak Sports Society Names and sports ranks of participants:

Climbing report on Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) in Tian Shan in 1959 via the northeast ridge, rated 5B difficulty.

Orography and Glaciation Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) is undoubtedly one of the most technically challenging peaks in the vast mountain range of Tien Shan. This beautiful peak rises above the middle part of the Stalin Ridge, with Peak Chapayeva (6,371 m) to the east beyond a saddle, and Peak N. Krupskaya (5,900 m) — still unclimbed — to the west, beyond a sharp drop in the ridge. Peak Maksim Gor'kiy has the shape of a giant trapezoid, sharply elevated above the ridge line. The summit ridge stretches from west to east for almost 2 km, with the highest point located in the eastern part, rising 150–170 m above the ridge. Three lateral spurs descend towards the South Inylchek Glacier: — southeast; — south; — southwest. Moreover, in their lower parts, these spurs branch out into a series of rocky ridges heavily glaciated, thus forming numerous rocky walls. The southeast and south spurs merge at around 5,900 m and then connect to the summit dome via a short ridge. All ridges are sharp and typically crowned with large cornices overhanging to the east. The southwest ridge extends to approximately 5,500–5,600 m, where it transitions into a steep edge. To the east, the peak drops with a 1.5 km wall into the multi-kilometer cirque of the Chapayev Glacier. Between the southeast and south ridges lies a cirque with the Karatash Glacier.

Description of the first ascent route to Peak 5576 m (Kazan Millennium) via the southern ridge from the Inylchek glacier, difficulty category 5A.

Climbing Passport Region — Tian-Shan, Sary-Jaz ridge, 7.8. Peak — 5576 m (1000th anniversary of Kazan) via the southern ridge from Inylchek glacier Proposed category of difficulty — 5A, first ascent Route type — combined Route characteristics: height difference (by altimeter) — 2426 m, route length (from the saddle) — 4167 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 527 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 57°,

Description of the first ascent route to Peak Semionov (5816 m) in Tian-Shan, made in 1958 by a group of climbers led by U. Usenov.

Materials about the Semenov Peak area Semenov Peak (5816 m), one of the most famous peaks in the Central Tian Shan, is located in the eastern part of the Sarydzhas ridge in the upper reaches of the eponymous glacier. The huge glaciated mass of Semenov Peak is the highest point of this ridge. East of Semenov Peak, in the Sarydzhas ridge, rises a two-headed peak (5437 m) - an important orographic node of Tian Shan. Here, the Terskey Alatau ridge (under the name of Katta-Ashutor) connects with Sarydzhas. The orography of the Semenov Peak area is incorrectly shown on: the map of military topographers from 1943 in the articles by A. Letavet and Timoshev "Conquest of the Marble Wall Peak" in the diagram by Nozdryukhin, etc. The true structure of this area was first shown on the diagram by V. Kolokolnikov (1953). And to the west (approximately 5 km away) is the unnamed peak "5488 m", which is also a photographic node (the Adyr-Tor ridge branches off from it, serving as a watershed between the Semenov and Mushketov glaciers). In addition to the two main ridges mentioned, a powerful southeast spur branches off from the peak, from which in turn further branch off:

Description of the route to Peak Eleven (northeastern summit) with a complexity category of 3B, including a detailed description of the path and overcoming obstacles.

7.8.4 Route Description TO PEAK ODINNADЦATI (northeastern summit) 5437 m. Brief geography of the area. Peak Odinnadцati is located in the area of the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier on the Sarydzhas ridge, between Peak Bayankol and an unnamed peak located northwest of Peak Semenov. The massive glaciations in this area drain into the "Zapadny Bayankol" glacier and from the southeastern slopes into the Severny Inylchek glacier. The northeastern summit of Peak Odinnadцati is predominantly snow-ice in character. Strong winds, blowing mostly from the southwest, form huge cornices on the ridge of the peak, overhanging the northwestern slopes. The ascent was first made by athletes from the Kazakh Alpine Club led by U. Usenov in August 1957. The group consisted of ten climbers, divided into five teams: U. Usenov — Domianiди Я. Brega M. — Tagabergenov M. Kaveshnikov Yu. — Tarasenko