Climbing Passport

Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1
Gorky (NE), 6010 m, via the left part of NW wall
Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
Route type: combined
Route elevation gain: 1510 m

Route length: 2050 m Section lengths:

V category of difficulty – 385 m
VI category of difficulty – 335 m Average steepness:
main part of the route (5220 m – 5900 m) – 63°
entire route (4500 m – 6010 m) – 53°

Pitons left on the route: total – 0; including bolted pitons – 0

Pitons used on the route: 333

stationary bolted pitons – 0; including artificial climbing holds (ACH) – 0
removable bolted pitons – 20; including ACH – 0 Total artificial climbing holds (ACH) used: 45

Team's climbing hours (including 2 days of preliminary route processing): – 75, 10 days (including 2 days of preliminary route processing).
Leader: Korobkov Alexander Alexandrovich, Master of Sports

Team members:

Chernyavsky Alexander Nikolaevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
Shabunin Alexander Anatolyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
Smagin Nikolai Vladimirovich, 1st sports category

Coach: Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich, Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia
Route start: 9:00, August 15, 2004

Summit reached: 15:15, August 24, 2004 Return to base camp: 23:30, August 25, 2004

General photograph of the Northwest wall of peak Gorky (NE)

Routes:

2001 team of the Ministry of Physical Culture and Sports of Sverdlovsk region
2004 team of the Ministry of Physical Culture and Sports of Sverdlovsk region

Photo August 2001, Guseva glacier

Photo of the wall profile from the left

Route Profile

Scale 1:10000

Khan-Tengri (6995 m)
Chapayeva (6371 m)

Abalakova (5861 m)

Gorky (NE) (6010 m)

Gorky (Main) (6050 m)

Panorama of the area

Overview of the Climbing Area

Peak Gorky is located in the Tengri-Tag ridge of Central Tian-Shan. The Northeast summit of peak Gorky is part of the Gorky massif, with the main summit having an elevation of 6050 m. According to the General Staff map, the Northeast summit has an elevation of 6010 m. Two ridge routes of 5B category of difficulty have been ascended to the main summit from the South Inylchek glacier. The traverse of Gorky–Khan-Tengri has been completed twice.

To the north, peak Gorky is flanked by steep rock walls with an elevation gain of about one and a half kilometers. There is a known (according to Honored Master of Sports K. Valeev) unsuccessful attempt to ascend the Northwest wall by a Ukrainian team led by Honored Master of Sports Sergey Bershov.

Ascent of the Northwest wall:

In 2001, a team from Sverdlovsk region (leader Yermachek Yu. V., coach Mikhailov A. A.) ascended a route through the center of the Northwest wall with a 6B category of difficulty. This was the first ascent of this wall.
In 2004, the team continued to explore the Northwest wall, choosing a new logical route through its left part.

The approach to the observation camp on the Guseva glacier at the start of the route from the base camp under the north wall of Khan-Tengri peak takes about five hours.

Technical Photographs of the Route

Section #	Ice pitons	Rock pitons	Protection	Difficulty	Length (m)	Steepness (°)
R9	4	0	0	4А	50	55
R8	4	0	0	4А	50	55
R7	4	0	0	4Б	50	55
R6	4	0	0	4Б	50	55
R5	4	0	0	4А	40	50
R4	4	0	0	4А	40	50
R3	4	0	0	4А	40	50
R2	4	0	0	4Б	40	55
R1	5	0	0	4А	40	50
R18	1	2	6	4Б	50	55
R17	3	2	2	4А	50	50
R16	4	0	0	4А	50	50
R15	4	0	0	4А	50	50
R14	4	0	0	4А	50	50
R13	4	1	0	4Б	50	60
R12	4	0	0	4А	50	50
R11	4	0	0	4Б	50	55
R10	3	0	0	4Б	50	55
R27	0	2	18	6А	40	75
R26	0	2	12	6Б	50	60
R25	0	3/1	15/10	6Б	50	70
R24	0	2	15/7	6А	45	70
R23	0	1	13/8	6Б	50	75
R22	0	1	20/10	6А	50	75
R21	0	3	10	5Б	50	60
R20	0	1	20	5Б	50	60
R19	1	1	9	5А	50	60
R36	0	1	3	3Б	30	50
R35	0	2	4	4А	50	50
R34	0	1	8	5А	50	60
R33	2	2	5	5А	45	60
R32	0	1	8	4Б	50	50
R31	2	2	10	5А	40	60
R30	0	1	20/9	6А	50	65
R29	0	1	8	5А	50	65
R28	4	2	15	5А	50	60
R37	0	0	0	3А	350	30