SKA SAVO

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTH WALL OF PIK PIONER 4050 m (left side) VIA ROUTE CAT. III (approx.)

SKA SAVO Team

Golodov Yu.F. — Master of Sports — team leader, Chumakov V.D. — Candidate Master of Sports — team member, Pavlov V.F. — 1st class — team member, Nesolenyi V.P. — 2nd class — team member, Mozgovoi A.G. — 2nd class — team member. 190 cm, 40 m, 60°, 3 stoppers, 5 hours.

Almaty

June 22, 1980

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent region — Zailiyskiy Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Pioner 4050 m via the left part of the southern wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference of the wall section 190, ridge section — 210 m, b) length of sections — II difficulty category — 460 m, III difficulty category — 135 m, IV difficulty category — 40 m, c) average steepness of the route — 60° 6. Number of pitons driven:

Climbing Route Description

TO MT. PIONER VIA THE NORTHERN FACE.

1. General Geographical Information

Mt. Pioner is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, in the northern spurs of the Tian Shan mountains. The height of the described peak is 4100 meters above sea level. The Malo-Almatinsky spur extends far to the north from the main ridge and is bordered by two gorges of the Malaya Almatinka and Leviy Talgar rivers. It ends with a small horseshoe-shaped formation of nine peaks, creating the Bogdanovich glacier cirque. The Bogdanovich glacier, 2 km long, gives rise to the Komosomolka stream, which flows into the Leviy Talgar river. The snow line of the ridge is at 3400-3500 meters above sea level. The eastern, southern, and western slopes are free from glaciation. Pink granite is the primary rock forming the Pioner - Uchitel peaks massif. The proximity of the desert and semi-desert zone significantly influences the harsh mountain climate, creating very favorable weather conditions for year-round climbing. The average annual temperature is +7...+10 °C. The minimum temperatures in January are -30...-35 °C. The prevailing wind direction is southwest.

2. Route Description to the Summit

There are two classified routes to the summit of Mt. Pioner:

1. Category 1B difficulty - via the western couloir from Pioner sky pass;

North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Pioner

via the central buttress of the South Face 4A cat. dif.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_ year — North Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioner 4031 m, via the central buttress of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. dif.

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right part of the South Face 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20_year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Pioneer

via the right edge of the South Face Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Pioneer 4031 m, via the right edge of the South Face
3. Proposed: Category 4A difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pioneer, 4050 m, via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) wall height difference — 275 m; b) section lengths: 2 — 30 m; 3 — 445 m; 4 — 115 m; 5 — 92 m; c) average wall steepness — 68°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating intermediate belays, rock pitons — 33, bolt pitons — 4, chocks — 6.
7. Total climbing hours — 7 h 20 min.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980

R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point. R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher. R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:

• Not everywhere is there good protection,
• There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up. From the chip off to the left Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4 The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.

Panorama from Pik Pioner. From left to right:

• Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m)
• Tuyuk-Su Needles (4213 m)
• Tuyuk-Su Peak (4218 m)
• Pogrebetsky Peak (4231 m)
• Lokomotiv Peak (4182 m)
• Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya Peak (4108 m)
• Molodeжная Peak (4147 m) Photo: Alexey Ignatenko, Almaty. (Full version — 400 Kb)

Pogrebetsky via n.d. from the North

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuksu glacier and, bypassing the northeastern ridge of the Molodezhnaya peak, move along the middle of the glacier to its drop. Then deviate to the left and, bypassing large stones at the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuksu peak, reach the snow-ice step, then cross the right outflow of the Tuyuksu glacier and approach the northern wall of the peak, then continue moving under the rock outcrop along the snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°. This section is dangerous: rockfalls and ice break-offs are possible. Therefore, it is recommended to start the route earlier, so that two-thirds of the path can be overcome before