
Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980
R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point.
R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher.
R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:
- Not everywhere is there good protection,
- There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up.
From the chip off to the left
Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4
The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.
R4–R5
From the ledge, ascend the wall above your head into a couloir, from which you can shower the second climber with a few rocks, but it's better not to. The belay station is at the end of the couloir on a ledge.
R5–R6
Ascend the wall to reach the slope slabs and continue along them until the rope runs out.


