Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: Traverse
2. Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau
3. Ascent route: Traverse of Peaks Karbyshev, Blyukher, and Tukhachevsky from north to south, ascending Peak Karbyshev via the southern edge.
4. Ascent description: Ascent to Peak Karbyshev is category 5A difficulty. Traverse length is 2600 m. Height difference between peaks and cols is 400 m. Length of technically difficult sections is 850 m.
5. Number of pitons: Rock - 142, ice - 15

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays.
7. Number of climbing hours:

• from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours.
• from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes.
• ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.

69

Report

on the ascent of Peak Karakolsky (5216 m) via the northwest ridge. Terskey-Alatau ridge.

Team of the Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak"

consisting of:

1. Biryukov V.N. - leader
2. Alibegasvhili L.M. - participant
3. Onin A.A. - participant
4. Bochkov D.S. - participant
5. Musienko V.V. - participant

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Central Tien-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
3. Peak Karakolsky via the Northern face through "Zmeika", variation.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Elevation gain 1480 m, length 2050 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 1170 m. Average steepness of main sections is 60° (3800-4700).
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons 34, drilled закладок 6, ice screws 153.
7. Climbing hours - 32, days - 3.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area (№ according to KTMGV) — Terskey Ala-Too, № p/p.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Karakolsky, 5281 m, North face (along the "snake").
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1631 m average steepness — 62° (wall) length of sections:
   • R1 — 80 m

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Peak Karakolsky, via the center of the North face
4. Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent
5. Height difference — 1600 m, length — 1850 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 170 m, 6 cat. dif. — 248 m. Steepness of the route — 57°
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |

Report on the Ascent of Karakolsky Peak

via the NE edge by a team of climbers from the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the Trud Sports Society for the primacy of the Central Sports Council of the Trud Sports Society in 1966.

Approved:

Chairman of the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the Trud Sports Society (V. Parygin)

Route Description

The description of the route is given in sections marked with numbers, and within the sections - by route points. The time taken to pass the sections is indicated for the first climber. August 7, 1966. Approach from the base camp - altitude 2700 m to Iikchat via the On-tor glacier to the overnight stay location, under the route - 7 hours. Altitude 3400 m. August 8, 1966. Departure from the bivouac at 7:00.

1. Crossing the glacier with a slope of 20–25°, ascent up the avalanche cone at 35° to the bergschrund, crossing the bergschrund via a bridge (photo 1) - time 1 hour.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1965 USSR TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM. HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS. REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF KRAKOL'SKY PEAK 5280 m NORTH-EAST COUNTERFORT (TIAN-SHAN, TERSKEY ALA-TAU RANGE) BY THE KIRGHIZ REssoyuzsport TEAM ON JULY 25-30, 1965. Frunze, 1965 LENGNIK Olgert Mikhaylovich — Master of Sports, participant. Works as a researcher, physicist. Karabalty settlement, Kalinin district, Kirghiz SSR. Has been involved in alpinism since 1952. Participates in the USSR championship for the second time. 1965. Inspection of the counterfort in profile from the western side and 2) "testing" the state of snow when the temperature regime changes throughout the day.

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF THE LITHUANIAN SSR May 21, 1970 TRAVERSING THE PEAKS OF JACQUES DUCLÔS — 4270 m — 4270 m — PIK G. AKSTINASA (KARAKOL VALLEY, TIAN SHAN) Leader: B. BINKAUSKAS, first ascent

Route Description

Traversing Jacques Duclôs – 4270 m – 4270 m – Pik G. Akstinasa

Category 3A route

The route starts from a campsite on the left moraine of the On-tor Glacier (see Scheme I). The campsite is well-protected from the wind, and there is water available, but it's necessary to dig trenches around the tents to avoid trouble from water flows resulting from rain. The ascent to Jacques Duclôs Peak begins with a climb straight up from the campsite. The route then proceeds through the following sections:

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Kok-bor gorge
3. Peak Jigit (V), 5170 m, via NE ridge (Furman, 73)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1370 m Length — 1840 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 540 m Average steepness of main sections 63° (4100–4950) Including 6 category of difficulty (40 m) — 82° (4350–4360; 4470–4480; 4800–4820)
6. Pitons hammered in: