Terskey Alatau

Mountain range18,893.26 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Traverse of the MGMI massif (Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge) from the Kara-Kol pass via the Eastern (4640 m) and Western peaks (4610 m).

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category: traverse
  2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, Karakol district.
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: traverse of MGMI massif from Karakol pass. Eastern peak (4640 m) and Western peak (4610 m).
  4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 865 m, average steepness 25°, route length 2700 m.
  5. Pitons driven: rock — II, ice — 4, bolted.
  6. Number of climbing hours: 15.
  7. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
  8. Team name: group of climbers from Rostov-on-Don consisting of: leader Bronnikov Anatoly Stepanovich 2nd sports category, participants Gazarbekyan Arshak Georgievich 1st sports category, Chuprina Alexander Sergeevich 1st sports category, Shamraevsky Yuri Mikhailovich 1st sports category, Shandulin Vladimir Ivanovich 2nd sports category.
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### Description of the First Ascent via the center of the triangle on the North Face of Mendeleyeva Peak (4122 m) in the Terskey Ala-Too range, Tian Shan, with a difficulty rating of 5B.

PASSPORT

  1. Climbing category — ROCK CLIMB
  2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
  3. Peak, height, ascent route: MENDELEEVETS, 4122 m, via CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE TRIANGLE.
  4. Difficulty category — 5B (approximate). pr. 588, #6
  5. Route characteristics: the wall section of the route is 583 m long, height difference is 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category is 377 m, wall steepness — 68°
  6. Pitons used: rock pitons 122/11, chocks 50/4, bolt pitons 2/0
  7. Total climbing time — 20 hours, including 15 hours on the wall and 3 days.
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one lying bivouac in a tent.
  9. Team composition:
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Description of a Category I complexity route to Mendeleevets Peak in Tian-Shan, complexity category 5B, completed by the Zenit Sports Society team in 16 hours.

Passport

  1. Rock class
  2. Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
  3. Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
  4. 5B category of difficulty
  5. Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
  6. Pitons hammered:
    • rock: 102
    • bolt: 20
    • chocks: –
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Description of the 5B category climbing route to the Mendeleyeva Peak (4122 m) along the left edge of the northern wall triangle in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, ridge — Teskey Ala-Too
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Mendeleevets, 4122 m, along the left edge of the northern wall triangle.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m (wall part 680 m), length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 375 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°.
  6. Number of pitons and placements used: for belay 164, for TSD — 38.
  7. Number of travel hours — 25 (including 21 on the wall).
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Description of the ascent to Peak Mendeleevets via the north wall along the 5B category difficulty route, made in 1981.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock
  2. Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too, Tian Shan
  3. Peak Mendeleevets, 4122, via the "triangle" of the North Face and North Ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 490 m, average steepness of the wall 74°.
  6. Number of pitons hammered: rock 61, chocks 37, ice screws 3 (for descent); including 84 for belay and 14 for creating intermediate belay anchors.
  7. Number of climbing hours: 21.
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one, semi-reclined.
  9. Team composition:
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Mendeleevets (4200 m) via the north wall of the north ridge, difficulty category 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Ayu-Tor gorge
  3. Peak: Mendeleyevec Peak 4200 m
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics a) Elevation gain — 900 m b) Length of R5–R6 sections — 578 m c) Average steepness — 67°
  6. Pitons driven: 79
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Description of the first ascent of Mendeleevets peak (4200 m) in Tian-Shan via the western ridge, grade 4A, with a detailed route description and technical details.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent classification — technical
  2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m.
  6. Pitons hammered for belay:
    • rock — 25
    • ice —
    • bolt —
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Route description to the summit "Litovskih Alpinistov" (4080 m) via the Eastern wall, category 4 complexity, located in the Tian-Shan mountain range.

Route Description

To the summit of "Lithuanian Climbers" from the east via the wall - Category 4A difficulty:

  • A. Petrauskas (leader)
  • A. Buiko
  • R. Valepetaite
  • R. Vosylute
  • V. Valatka
  • M. Navelukas

Brief Description of the Summit

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Description of the first ascent route to Peak Karbyshev (4700 m) via the center of the eastern wall, category 5B difficulty level, in Tian-Shan.

Ascent Certificate

  1. ASCENT CLASS: technical
  2. ASCENT AREA: Tian-Shan, Ontor gorge, Kara-Kol area
  3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the center of the Eastern wall.
  4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B
  5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: rocky ELEVATION DIFFERENCE: glacier–summit 900 m, wall section 250 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: wall section 75–85°, entire route 40–50°. LENGTH OF 5–6 difficulty category sections: 280 m
  6. PITS DRIVEN:
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Description of the ascent to Peak Karbyshev via the southern ridge, category 4B, made by a group led by Alexander Soldatov in 2003.

Ascent Log

  1. p. Karbysheva is located in the Terskey-Alatoo range to the north of p. Karakolsky, between p. Blyukhera and p. Dyuklo. The route's ordinal number is 69, section 7.10 of the classification table.
  2. Name — Pik Karbysheva. Route name — via the South Ridge.
  3. Proposed category of difficulty is 4B.
  4. Route type — combined.
  5. Height difference — 630 m.
  6. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with category 5 complexity — 105 m. Average steepness of the route — 47°. Steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
  7. Number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs.
  8. No ITO was used; no drill-in anchors were used.
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