Terskey Alatau

Mountain range18,893.26 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Climbing passport for the summit Sh-n Vostochny Oguuz-Bashi via the northern edge, 5B difficulty category, Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Central Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
  3. Peak — III-y Vostochnaya Oguz-Bashi, its height is 4960 m, ascent route — via the northern edge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, length of sections 5–6 — 759 m, average steepness — 70°.
  6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 82, ice — 64, bolt — 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 3
  7. Number of walking hours — 48
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
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### First Ascent of the North Face of 2nd Eastern Oguz-Bashi Peak in Tian Shan Category: 5.6 difficulty level. Descent via the west ridge. Climbers: A. Vishnevskiy, A. Kochegarov, V. Shilov and K. Shilov.

PASSPORT

  1. Ice and snow class
  2. Tian-Shan, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. 2nd Eastern Oguz-Bashi peak, center of the northern wall
  4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1500 m. Length of 5B category sections — 1200 m. Average steepness of the route (main part) 60° (3750–4600 m)
  6. Pitons hammered in:
    • Rock: 5/0
    • Bolt: none
    • Chocks: 15/0
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Ascent to Keldysh Peak (4430 m) via North Edge from Ay lama pass, grade 4A, height difference 766 m, 15 hours of climbing.

  1. Climbing category — technical
  2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Summit — Keldysh Peak, 4430 m, ascent route via the North Ridge from Ayilama Pass
  4. Estimated category difficulty: 4A
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 766 m, length of sections with IV–V category difficulty — 660 m, average steepness 48°
  6. Pitons used: rock anchors — 12, ice screws — 34, bolt anchors — 0
  7. Total climbing hours — 15
  8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 0
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Description of the 4A category route to Peak 4430 (Keldysh Peak) via the eastern ridge in the Terskey Ala-Too range, Central Tien Shan.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — snow-ice
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Baytor gorge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4430 (named after Keldysh) via the eastern edge
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 775 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 160 m, average steepness — 45°
  6. Driven protection hooks: | Rock | 6 | | :------- | :--: |
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Description of the traverse of "Edinstvo narodov" peaks (4840 m - 4850 m) in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge along the northern wall with a 5B complexity category.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent category - traverse
  2. Ascent area: Central Tien-Shan range, Terskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge.
  3. Peak, its height - traverse of peaks "Edinstvo narodov" 4840 m – 4850 m with ascent to peak 4840 m via the north face
  4. Proposed category of difficulty - 5B
  5. Ascent characteristics height difference 1440 m, average steepness of the face 76°, length of the difficult section of 5–6 cat. diff., 1303 m.
  6. Pitons hammered rock - 186, ice - 81, for creating ITO 15
  7. Number of travel hours - 38
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Technical ascent description of 4B category of complexity to Peak Burevestnik (4360 m) via the North-Eastern ridge in the Terskey Ala-Too range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge
  3. Peak — Peak Burevestnik, 4360 m, ascent route — via North-Eastern ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category 4B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 514 m, length of sections IV–V cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness 55°
  6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 33, ice — 2, bolted — 0
  7. Number of travel hours — 14
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Report on the first ascent of Pik Burevestnik (4360 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, description of the route and approaches.

Technical category

Report

on the ascent (first ascent) to Peak Burevestnik (4360 m) via the North-East Ridge. Terskey Ala-Too Range Team of the Kyrgyz RSS DSO "Spartak" consisting of:

  1. Orlov S.T.
  2. Alkov Yu.E. Frunze 1978 Map of the axial part of the Terskey Alatau Range in the upper reaches of the Jety-Oguz River.

Brief description of the approach to the route

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Ascent to Peak Burevestnik (4360 m) via the Eastern Ridge in the Terskey Ala-Too range, category 4A, 12 walking hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge III. Peak — "Burevestnik" peak, 4360 m, ascent route — via the Eastern ridge IV. Estimated complexity category 4A V. Route characteristics: height difference 764 m, length of sections with 4-5 cat. diff. 295 m, average steepness 51° VI. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 31, ice — 0, bolted — 0 VII. Number of climbing hours — 12

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Description of the first ascent of the 20 Let Komsomola Kyrgyzстана peak via the northern wall of the western summit, ice and snow complexity category, accomplished by the Moscomsport team in 1988.

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Passport

  1. Class — ice and snow
  2. Terskey Ala-Too, Bantor gorge
  3. Summit "20 лет газеты «Комсомолец Киргизии»" via the center of the north face of the western shoulder.
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 750 m, length — 965 m Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (3700–4450) Average steepness of the rocky part — 63° (3820–4030)
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A 5B category route on the North face of Baitor peak in the Djety-Oguz gorge of Terskey-Alatoo range, first ascent by the team led by Alexander Barchuk in 1988.

Pas via CN

I. Category — snow and ice climbing. 2. Terskey-Alatoo, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak Baitor, via the icy couloir on the North Face. 4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1000 m; wall section height difference — 755 m, length — 1100 m, average steepness (laser survey) — 53°. Length of Category 5 difficulty sections — 1020 m. 6. Pitons hammered in:

rockexpansionice
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